
Even
though today is June 30, its going on the July folder because Shelley
already downloaded June to our web site. Oh well. Peter, Marie, Norm
and Shelley
left (in 2 coaches) heading north. After a short drive, we stopped to see
The Arches, a natural bridge (actually 3 bridges) that has been eroded over time
by the power of storms and tides. We had a photo session, and Marie
couldn't help but pick us some rocks to save as souvenirs. After another
hour of driving, we stopped at Port Au Choix, a small fishing village of about
1,000 inhabitants. This town had no electricity until the 1970's and no
roads served the town....all supplies and other goods was dropped off by a boat
which stopped off periodically. The town has been inhabited for about 4500
years, and a cemetery about that old is regarded as one of the richest
archaeological sites in North America. The weather was really ugly (what a
surprise) so we decided not to hike out to a archaeological dig, but instead we
pushed on.
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A view of the Arches
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Peter & Marie at the Arches - Marie picking up rocks
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Norm & Shelley at the Arches
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We finally made it to Saint Anthony, almost at the northern end
of Newfoundland. When we arrived, we couldn't believe it - the sun was
out. We had some mussels and more of Marie's delicious stew, and while we
were all hanging out together, the heavens opened up AGAIN. This is
becoming a real pain.... We have
tentative plans for a boat ride tomorrow...we're all hoping for sunny weather,
and we don't mean liquid sunshine. Saturday, July 1 is Canada day, sort of
like our July 4th. We had read about a free barbecue from 11 AM to 1 PM,
so we headed into St. Anthony at 12 o'clock for some eats prior to taking a boat ride.
Well, the flyer didn't lie, the food was due to be served at 12:30 which is
certainly between 11 and 1. We didn't wait, as we had reserved seats on
the boat trip for 1 PM. We all boarded the 50 foot boat and set off.
As soon as we left the harbor, it got really cold. The guide told us that
the water temperature was about 3 degrees Centigrade (about 37 degrees
Fahrenheit - its probably about 70 in Long Island Sound) and we should have
expected the air temperature to be pretty chilly. We saw some porpoises,
humpback and minke whales on the way - but we'd seen those before.
The highlight of the trip was a circumnavigation of an iceberg that was about 3
miles off shore. According to the guide, the iceberg was about the size of
a football field with a height of about 40 feet with about 175-200 feet under
the water. The iceberg had been formed about 2,000 years ago from falling
snow and had probably started out about 2 years ago off the coast of
Greenland prior to showing up in Newfoundland. He estimated that during
the next month or so the iceberg would crack and split up until it disappeared.
In places, the iceberg was a turquoise blue color, just as some of the glaciers
we had seen and reminded us of the color of Caribbean waters. The guide said that at times there could be many icebergs in
the area, with the busiest time during the middle of June. Since the boat
tour owners are local Newfoundlanders, we also gained some insight as to all the
roadside gardens and neatly stacked piles of wood alongside the local roads.
It appears that the government allows the citizens to plant their vegetable
gardens alongside the roads. As most of the houses are along the
coastline, the air is too cold and the land is too rocky and granite filled to
garden. The roads, inland as compared to many of the houses, have better
soil and the air is warmer. The people have set up gardens alongside the
highways, very neat with raised beds. We think most of what is growing
appears to be potatoes and other hardy crops. Along with these gardens are
stacks and stacks of neatly stacked firewood. The citizens get specific
permits which allow them to go into the woods and cut down deadwood. They
cut down the wood and bring it out to the roadsides on sleds. It sits
there during the summer and dries, allowing them to use it for firewood the next
winter. We have commented more than once that if this was done in most of
the US, it wouldn't stay on the sides of the road for very long.
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The iceberg!!
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Another view....
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Another view!!
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Humpback whale
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Snowcrab traps along the waterfront
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Example of a roadside garden
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A scarecrow adorning a roadside garden
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Roadside garden with wood piles
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We had dinner
overlooking the sea at the Light Keeper's cafe, with an incredible view of the
ocean. Norm
had cold water shrimp, something we had never heard of before. They tasted
just like the shrimp that we were used to, but they were much softer. In
the evening, in addition to Peter and Marie, we had other company, a family from
Missouri. The wife has a PhD in Anthropology and she is studying the spread
of the flu during a 1918 epidemic among fishermen in Newfoundland and Labrador.
She hopes to be able to extrapolate her findings to help in the event of an
avian flu epidemic. She and her husband and 17 year old daughter are
traveling for a month sleeping in a tent (the daughter is sleeping in the car)
and then they've rented a room in St. John where they will be spending a month
continuing with her research. We can't imagine tenting out with all of the
wet weather that we've had, Shelley maintains she can't imagine sleeping in a
tent regardless of the weather..... On Sunday morning we had planned to go to the
Viking settlements, but the rain was coming down in buckets. Peter and
Marie went anyway, and we went downtown to visit the Grenfell exhibit.
Wilfred Grenfell lived from 1865 to 1940, and he spent his time working with the
natives of coastal Labrador and northern Newfoundland. He was a physician
and set up facilities for medical care throughout the area. He often
visited patients by dogsled, and worked to educate them about disease
prevention. He was also a missionary of sorts. Anyway, in 1981 the
government bought out his facilities for $1 and took over responsibility for
medical care in the area.
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Sir Wilfred Grenfell
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On Sunday evening we had 6 for dinner as Peter and Marie
joined with Gene and Judy Wade, Texans who were parked next to us. It was
a pot luck affair, and Shelley contributed a delicious pot of home made soup (it
is so cold out, we all needed some soup!!) as
well as broiled chicken. On Monday morning Peter and Marie left to head south and
east toward Saint John. We'll surely meet again in Florida as they winter in
Zephyrhills, not far from Deer Creek. It was another rainy day, but we
left to do some more sightseeing. I think that if we stayed in whenever it
rained, we'd never see anything. We traveled about 20 miles to visit L'Anse
aux Meadows (the cove of meadows) on the northern most tip of Newfoundland.
This is the site of a Viking settlement dated to about the year 1000; it was
settled under the leadership of Lief Eriksson. It was discovered in 1960
and is the first known Viking site in North America. The homes were made
of sod, with the walls about 6 feet thick to keep out the cold and the roof
about 12-18 inches thick to keep out the rain. It is also the first place
in North America where ore was smelted to produce iron. We also were
introduced to the Bakeapple plant. The Newfoundland gift shops have all
these local preserves, with Bakeapple being one of them. When the berry
ripens, it turns a bright orange and the jam is the same color. [Triple Falls RV Campground - St.
Anthony, Newfoundland - 51.26 N / 55.38 W ]
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Entrance to a sod house
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Interior of sod house
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Shelley standing at the entrance. See how low the ceiling is??
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View of Viking Village from Visitors Center
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Viking man playing whistle
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Another Viking!
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View of the workhouse
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Bakedapple plants
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On Tuesday we had a leisurely drive down the coast
to the little village of Cow Head, named after a small rocky island just off the
coast. We stayed at a tiny campground (9 sites) right across the road from
the harbor. Shelley went "beach shopping" - there was a lot of pieces of
lobster pots, a small picket fence portion, some rocks and pieces of bleached
driftwood that she just had to have!! Our trunk of the car is filled with
stuff like that - for Block Island, she says!! I wonder if we'll be able
to get it across Customs back in the US? Anyway, just as with almost all of the other tiny towns along the
coast, the major industry in fishing. In addition, the Gros Morne Theater
is in Cow Head, a short drive (or a medium walk) from our campground. We
walked into town to get our tickets for the evening show, but then drove in to
see the show, which consisted of 5 young entertainers playing real instruments
(no electric stuff), singing folky Newfoundland songs, and telling Newfoundland
stories. It was much lower key than the Anchors Aweigh show that we saw
last week, but it as really nice, relaxing entertainment. [Cow Head,
Newfoundland - Sea Breeze Campground - 49.55 N / 57.48 W]
We got up early on Wednesday, 7/5 and drove a short
distance down the coast to Rocky Harbour. We got set up quickly and then
drove a few miles up the coast to Western Brook. We parked at the lot near
the highway and then walked (Shelley would call it a hike) a little more then a
mile into the fjord. On the way, we saw a moose (maybe 2) in the distance
and encountered lots of friendly folks taking the same walk. Just before
we got to the pond we met a couple from Hamilton, Ontario. Sam Tick is a
barrister (Canadian attorney) and Liz is a retired physical therapist. The
boat trip down Western Brook Pond was awesome. The pond is like a fjord,
except that it is fresh water and not connected to the sea (except by a small
brook). There were vertical mountains right up to the water, and
waterfalls everywhere. We even saw some snow left over from the winter!! We returned to our campground and there we met Gene
and Judy Wade, Texans who we had met a few times during our Canadian trip.
We went out for dinner with Sam and Liz and Gene and Judy, and then we went to
Anchors Aweigh for another exhilarating evening of Newfoundland music. Thursday
was just a hanging out day...we did some small shopping, read, and took naps.
After dinner we went out for coffee and pie...Norm had partridge berry pie.
The partridge berry taste somewhat like cranberries, very tart but sweetened. [Rocky Harbour, Newfoundland - Gros Morne Campground - 49.35 N / 57.55 W]
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The moose we saw along our walk towards the boat
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Entrance to the fjord in Western Brook Pond
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One of several waterfalls
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This is called "Pissing Mares" waterfall
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Silhouette of man on top of mountain
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There was even some snow left in the mountains
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We got up on Friday morning to see, guess what, blue
skies!!! We packed up the coach and left Rocky Harbour, heading south for
one more leg of the southbound trip to Port-Aux-Basques and the ferry to Nova
Scotia. We returned to Corner Brook for a quick stay that included such
mundane activities as grocery shopping, a haircut for Norm, downloading e-mails
at a local bank, and some on-line banking. We even got a rare opportunity
to go to the movies. We walked out of Pirates of the Caribbean after a
short time and went to see The Return of Superman. Shelley thought that it
was OK, and Norm was ready to walk out of that movie also. Since a caravan
is coming into this campground tomorrow morning, we have to be out of here by a
little after 10, so we'll need to be up and ready.
[Kinsmen Prince Edward Campground - Corner Brook,
Newfoundland - 48.58 N / 57.54 W ]
Saturday found us up and ready early. Its been
pretty sunny since we started heading south...as if the sun was happy to see us
go. We drove about 130 miles to a campground close to the ferry, we have a
9 AM reservation for Sunday morning. Like almost all of the campgrounds that we've stopped at
since we left CT, this one was pretty empty. Their season is really short,
most are open from 6/15-9/15 - its hard to understand how they survive
financially. [Little Paradise RV Park - Port Aux Basques, Newfoundland -
47.46 N / 59.17 W]
We got up bright and early on Sunday morning and
arrived at the ferry terminal at 8 AM, right on schedule. The
passengers were the only ones on time, as the ferry didn't get in until 11:05
and we left about 11:45, more then 2 hours late. Our friends from Texas,
Gene and Judy were also on the ferry and we spent most of the trip over shooting
the breeze. Norm managed to watch the World Cup soccer final with a crowd
of others. We arrived in North Sydney, Nova Scotia at about 6:30 p.m., and we
drove off the ferry and just kept going. Our friends Mo and Mary Guffy
were probably with a caravan at a nearby campground. We thought about
stopping to visit, but we heard that there were 5 caravans there, and not a bit
of space. So we drove by, and drove past Baddeck and all the way to
Antigonish, where we again stopped at the Visitor's Bureau for a free night of
camping. [Visitor's Bureau - Antigonish, Nova Scotia - 45.37 N / 61.59 W].
On Monday, 7/10 we got up, did some shopping at a
supermarket, and hit the road. It was the longest day on the road since
5/24, and we drove all the way through Nova Scotia and through part of the
province of New Brunswick. We didn't pick our campground until the last
minute, and ended up at a large campground in the middle of a municipal park,
right in the middle of Saint John.
There was a caravan of 24 RVs, and they were on their way up North
for a 40 day trip. Shelley spent most of the afternoon doing wash and
getting things dried in the damp air, which ended up with dense fog late in the
day. There was lots to do in Saint John, so we set out on Tuesday morning
to see the sights. Downtown wasn't far away, so we drove over and parked
our car. Our first stop was the Jewish Museum of Saint John. Norm
found this one of the most memorable stops in almost 2 years of driving around.
In the 1960's there was a flourishing Jewish community in Saint John of about
2,500 families, and there were 2 congregations in town. We were told that
today there are about 25 or 30 Jewish families in town that are temple members.
According to a pamphlet, "In the 1970's and 1980's the community started
diminishing with the migration of children to universities and opportunities in
larger centres. Often parents followed in their retirement years." The Hebrew school has 3 students, and the last Bar Mitzvah was 4 years ago.
The museum was created in 1986 "to preserve our heritage and to share with with
the larger community." We visited the synagogue of Congregation Shaarei
Zedek, and it was beautiful, but it is only used during the
high holidays. It is too vast a building to heat in the wintertime with
such a small congregation attending. The rest of the time, services are held in a little chapel
in the museum building. Following this, we went to the City Market, where
lots of meat and fresh fruit is sold, along with a potpourri of other stuff.
There are a number of little places to eat there. Among the more
interesting foods for sale is Dulse. This is a type of seaweed that grows
naturally on rocks along the seacoast. The Dulse is collected, dried for 6
hours and then eaten as a nosh, like potato chips. Norm was brave enough
to try it; it was very salty with a strange consistency, but he survived -
Shelley wouldn't even consider tasting it! We descended to an underground
shopping mall that snaked through the downtown area and connected some
aboveground businesses. I guess it makes shopping easier during the cold
winters. We also stopped at the New Brunswick Museum which features a full
length model (and also a skeleton) of a 49 foot long right whale which died
about 12 years ago. It also had furnishings and artwork from New Brunswick and
around the world. We found it very interesting. After that, we
walked outside and found Barbours General Store. It is a restored 19th
century country store containing some 2,000 artifacts, including grocery items,
china, farm tools and kitchen utensils. It was jam packed with signs all
over the place "Do Not Touch"! We had a few more things to see,
so we left the rig on Wednesday morning and headed out. The AAA tour book
mentioned a tour of a brewery with free samples, so we thought we'd do that.
But first we visited the Reversing Falls. Imagine a water fall that
dropped a river by12 feet as it entered a bay. Now imagine the tides in
the Bay of Fundy raising the water level by 20 feet. Suddenly the water
would flow up the river. Now, combine this with water depths that vary from
10-15 feet to over 150 feet, giving rise to whirlpools and eddies, and you get
the Reversing Falls. We were there at slack tide, so we didn't see the
turmoil of rapid flows. Next we drove a short distance to see the Carleton
Martello Tower, a remnant from the War of 1812 placed on the highest point of
Saint John, initially to help defend the city from American troops. This
circular tower, 4 stories high was used as a lookout in defense of the harbor
from 1815 until the end of the 2nd World War. While the views were
impressive, the dense fog, which came and went during the whole time we were in
Saint John, obscured most of the view. I'm not sure if a lookout tower
does much good if its fogged in. That evening, at the campground, a
caravan of old cars came for a visit. There were about 15 or 20 antique
cars, all in excellent shape. [Rockwood Park - Saint John, New Brunswick
- 45.18 N / 66.03 W]
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Shaarei Zedek small chapel
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Shaarei Zedek main chapel
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Shelley with the Dulse
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Barbours General Store
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Antique MG
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On Thursday morning, 7/13,another foggy day, we hitched
up our car and set out. We had exchanged our Canadian money back for
American on the previous day, but suddenly we were faced with a toll of $1.05 to
cross the Saint John River. I guess we weren't the first to face this, as
the toll collector was glad to take American money. The border crossing
was at the Canadian town of St. Stephen, and it took us about an hour to inch
through the town until we got through immigration. We were worried that
they were going to confiscate some of our food, but we escaped any such penalty.
The trip down the Maine Coast was slow, with the rain and drizzle combined with
the narrow bumpy road called "Coastal Route 1". We found our campground,
pulled into our site and got all hooked up and leveled. Then Shelley went
to pay.....she came back irate, upset and really ticked. Part of the sign
in procedure included asking us if we had any pets.....when she told the office staff that we
had a small dog, they told her that the dog couldn't be left alone in the coach.
That's the first time that we heard that one. They expected us to take
Rags with us in the car wherever we went, regardless of the fact that there is a
heat wave, 80 - 90 degrees outside. We called a few other Bar
Harbor Campgrounds, and they all had the same rule!!! Norm went back up to
the office and just told them we would follow all their rules, all the time
knowing that we would be leaving Rags alone when we went sightseeing. Who
would know, as long as he stopped his barking relatively soon after we left.
So, we calmed down - or at least Shelley did....Norm stayed calm throughout! We went out for dinner with our neighbors
in the next campsite, who used to live not far from us in
CT!! Talk about a small world.... Anyway, we each had an "a la carte lobster" plus a salad bar for $17.98.
Not too bad!! On Friday we went to Acadia National Park, a place of
unspectacular beauty with incredible views and the well known Maine rocky
coastline. We had many great views of the coast, one from Cadillac Mountain, the highest point on the Atlantic seacoast at
1,500 feet. Acadia was the first National Park east of the Mississippi,
and is the only park composed entirely of land donated by private citizens.
They were the super rich, who built a society in Bar Harbor comparable to that
of Newport, RI. They bought the land themselves and then donated it to the
federal government. These huge mansions as well as much
of the rest of the area were ruined in a large fire of 1947. Following our
travel around the loop road and trip to the top of Cadillac Mountain we drove
into the town of Bar Harbor. We were both unimpressed by the town.
It seems as if its nothing very different than all of the other touristy places
that we've visited - too many shops and too many people. We got a phone
call from one of our RVing friends from Connecticut whom we've meet in
Lafayette, Louisiana and now here in Maine. We met them for dinner, along
with their friend from Bar Harbor and went back to their friend's house.
We all got to talking and realized that each of the three couples has lost a
child. Our friend's son Patrick, died 18 years ago from an auto accident.
Their friend Bob lost his 4 hour old infant son from a medical mistake in the
hospital. Our beloved daughter Amy died almost 3 years ago - how can that
be already??? It was so heart rendering to be able to speak about our
grief and loss with others that can fully understand - and how sad that we each
experienced such a life changing grief filled event. [Bar Harbor Campground - Bar Harbor, Maine - 44.26 N /
68.16 W]
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View from the top of Cadillac Mountain
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Shelley on top of Cadillac Mountain
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Acadia National Park
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View from the Loop Road
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Sand Beach from the Loop Road
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Boats at the dock in Bar Harbor
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