July 2006

Home Up

Even though today is June 30, its going on the July folder because Shelley already downloaded June to our web site.  Oh well.  Peter, Marie, Norm and Shelley left (in 2 coaches) heading north.  After a short drive, we stopped to see The Arches, a natural bridge (actually 3 bridges) that has been eroded over time by the power of storms and tides.  We had a photo session, and Marie couldn't help but pick us some rocks to save as souvenirs.  After another hour of driving, we stopped at Port Au Choix, a small fishing village of about 1,000 inhabitants.  This town had no electricity until the 1970's and no roads served the town....all supplies and other goods was dropped off by a boat which stopped off periodically.  The town has been inhabited for about 4500 years, and a cemetery about that old is regarded as one of the richest archaeological sites in North America.  The weather was really ugly (what a surprise) so we decided not to hike out to a archaeological dig, but instead we pushed on. 

A view of the Arches

Peter & Marie at the Arches - Marie picking up rocks

Norm & Shelley at the Arches

We finally made it to Saint Anthony, almost at the northern end of Newfoundland.  When we arrived, we couldn't believe it - the sun was out.  We had some mussels and more of Marie's delicious stew, and while we were all hanging out together, the heavens opened up AGAIN.  This is becoming a real pain....  We have tentative plans for a boat ride tomorrow...we're all hoping for sunny weather, and we don't mean liquid sunshine.  Saturday, July 1 is Canada day, sort of like our July 4th.  We had read about a free barbecue from 11 AM to 1 PM, so we headed into St. Anthony at 12 o'clock for some eats prior to taking a boat ride.  Well, the flyer didn't lie, the food was due to be served at 12:30 which is certainly between 11 and 1.  We didn't wait, as we had reserved seats on the boat trip for 1 PM.  We all boarded the 50 foot boat and set off.  As soon as we left the harbor, it got really cold.  The guide told us that the water temperature was about 3 degrees Centigrade (about 37 degrees Fahrenheit - its probably about 70 in Long Island Sound) and we should have expected the air temperature to be pretty chilly.  We saw some porpoises, humpback and minke whales on the way - but we'd seen those before.  The highlight of the trip was a circumnavigation of an iceberg that was about 3 miles off shore.  According to the guide, the iceberg was about the size of a football field with a height of about 40 feet with about 175-200 feet under the water.  The iceberg had been formed about 2,000 years ago from falling snow and had probably started out about 2 years ago off the coast of Greenland prior to showing up in Newfoundland.  He estimated that during the next month or so the iceberg would crack and split up until it disappeared.  In places, the iceberg was a turquoise blue color, just as some of the glaciers we had seen and reminded us of the color of Caribbean waters.  The guide said that at times there could be many icebergs in the area, with the busiest time during the middle of June.  Since the boat tour owners are local Newfoundlanders, we also gained some insight as to all the roadside gardens and neatly stacked piles of wood alongside the local roads.  It appears that the government allows the citizens to plant their vegetable gardens alongside the roads.  As most of the houses are along the coastline, the air is too cold and the land is too rocky and granite filled to garden.  The roads, inland as compared to many of the houses, have better soil and the air is warmer.  The people have set up gardens alongside the highways, very neat with raised beds.  We think most of what is growing appears to be potatoes and other hardy crops.  Along with these gardens are stacks and stacks of neatly stacked firewood.  The citizens get specific permits which allow them to go into the woods and cut down deadwood.  They cut down the wood and bring it out to the roadsides on sleds.  It sits there during the summer and dries, allowing them to use it for firewood the next winter.  We have commented more than once that if this was done in most of the US, it wouldn't stay on the sides of the road for very long.

The iceberg!!

Another view....

Another view!!

Humpback whale

Snowcrab traps along the waterfront

Example of a roadside garden

A scarecrow adorning a roadside garden

Roadside garden with wood piles

We had dinner overlooking the sea at the Light Keeper's cafe, with an incredible view of the ocean.  Norm had cold water shrimp, something we had never heard of before.  They tasted just like the shrimp that we were used to, but they were much softer.  In the evening, in addition to Peter and Marie, we had other company, a family from Missouri.  The wife has a PhD in Anthropology and she is studying the spread of the flu during a 1918 epidemic among fishermen in Newfoundland and Labrador.  She hopes to be able to extrapolate her findings to help in the event of an avian flu epidemic.  She and her husband and 17 year old daughter are traveling for a month sleeping in a tent (the daughter is sleeping in the car) and then they've rented a room in St. John where they will be spending a month continuing with her research.  We can't imagine tenting out with all of the wet weather that we've had, Shelley maintains she can't imagine sleeping in a tent regardless of the weather.....  On Sunday morning we had planned to go to the Viking settlements, but the rain was coming down in buckets.  Peter and Marie went anyway, and we went downtown to visit the Grenfell exhibit.  Wilfred Grenfell lived from 1865 to 1940, and he spent his time working with the natives of coastal Labrador and northern Newfoundland.  He was a physician and set up facilities for medical care throughout the area.  He often visited patients by dogsled, and worked to educate them about disease prevention.  He was also a missionary of sorts.  Anyway, in 1981 the government bought out his facilities for $1 and took over responsibility for medical care in the area. 

Sir Wilfred Grenfell

On Sunday evening we had 6 for dinner as Peter and Marie joined with Gene and Judy Wade, Texans who were parked next to us.  It was a pot luck affair, and Shelley contributed a delicious pot of home made soup (it is so cold out, we all needed some soup!!) as well as broiled chicken. On Monday morning Peter and Marie left to head south and east toward Saint John.  We'll surely meet again in Florida as they winter in Zephyrhills, not far from Deer Creek.  It was another rainy day, but we left to do some more sightseeing.  I think that if we stayed in whenever it rained, we'd never see anything.  We traveled about 20 miles to visit L'Anse aux Meadows (the cove of meadows) on the northern most tip of Newfoundland.  This is the site of a Viking settlement dated to about the year 1000; it was settled under the leadership of Lief Eriksson.  It was discovered in 1960 and is the first known Viking site in North America.  The homes were made of sod, with the walls about 6 feet thick to keep out the cold and the roof about 12-18 inches thick to keep out the rain.  It is also the first place in North America where ore was smelted to produce iron.  We also were introduced to the Bakeapple plant.  The Newfoundland gift shops have all these local preserves, with Bakeapple being one of them.  When the berry ripens, it turns a bright orange and the jam is the same color.  [Triple Falls RV Campground - St. Anthony, Newfoundland - 51.26 N / 55.38 W ]

Entrance to a sod house

Interior of sod house

Shelley standing at the entrance. See how low the ceiling is??

View of Viking Village from Visitors Center

Viking man playing whistle

Another Viking!

View of the workhouse

Bakedapple plants

 

On Tuesday we had a leisurely drive down the coast to the little village of Cow Head, named after a small rocky island just off the coast.  We stayed at a tiny campground (9 sites) right across the road from the harbor.  Shelley went "beach shopping" - there was a lot of pieces of lobster pots, a small picket fence portion, some rocks and pieces of bleached driftwood that she just had to have!!  Our trunk of the car is filled with stuff like that - for Block Island, she says!!  I wonder if we'll be able to get it across Customs back in the US?  Anyway, just as with almost all of the other tiny towns along the coast, the major industry in fishing.  In addition, the Gros Morne Theater is in Cow Head, a short drive (or a medium walk) from our campground.  We walked into town to get our tickets for the evening show, but then drove in to see the show, which consisted of 5 young entertainers playing real instruments (no electric stuff), singing folky Newfoundland songs, and telling Newfoundland stories.  It was much lower key than the Anchors Aweigh show that we saw last week, but it as really nice, relaxing entertainment. [Cow Head, Newfoundland - Sea Breeze Campground - 49.55 N / 57.48 W] 

We got up early on Wednesday, 7/5 and drove a short distance down the coast to Rocky Harbour.  We got set up quickly and then drove a few miles up the coast to Western Brook.  We parked at the lot near the highway and then walked (Shelley would call it a hike) a little more then a mile into the fjord.  On the way, we saw a moose (maybe 2) in the distance and encountered lots of friendly folks taking the same walk.  Just before we got to the pond we met a couple from Hamilton, Ontario.  Sam Tick is a barrister (Canadian attorney) and Liz is a retired physical therapist.  The boat trip down Western Brook Pond was awesome.  The pond is like a fjord, except that it is fresh water and not connected to the sea (except by a small brook).  There were vertical mountains right up to the water, and waterfalls everywhere.  We even saw some snow left over from the winter!!  We returned to our campground and there we met Gene and Judy Wade, Texans who we had met a few times during our Canadian trip.  We went out for dinner with Sam and Liz and Gene and Judy, and then we went to Anchors Aweigh for another exhilarating evening of Newfoundland music.  Thursday was just a hanging out day...we did some small shopping, read, and took naps.  After dinner we went out for coffee and pie...Norm had partridge berry pie.  The partridge berry taste somewhat like cranberries, very tart but sweetened.  [Rocky Harbour, Newfoundland - Gros Morne Campground - 49.35 N / 57.55 W] 

The moose we saw along our walk towards the boat

Entrance to the fjord in Western Brook Pond

One of several waterfalls

This is called "Pissing Mares" waterfall

Silhouette of man on top of mountain

There was even some snow left in the mountains

We got up on Friday morning to see, guess what, blue skies!!!  We packed up the coach and left Rocky Harbour, heading south for one more leg of the southbound trip to Port-Aux-Basques and the ferry to Nova Scotia.  We returned to Corner Brook for a quick stay that included such mundane activities as grocery shopping, a haircut for Norm, downloading e-mails at a local bank, and some on-line banking.  We even got a rare opportunity to go to the movies.  We walked out of Pirates of the Caribbean after a short time and went to see The Return of Superman.  Shelley thought that it was OK, and Norm was ready to walk out of that movie also.  Since a caravan is coming into this campground tomorrow morning, we have to be out of here by a little after 10, so we'll need to be up and ready.   [Kinsmen Prince Edward Campground - Corner Brook, Newfoundland - 48.58 N / 57.54 W ]  

Saturday found us up and ready early. Its been pretty sunny since we started heading south...as if the sun was happy to see us go.  We drove about 130 miles to a campground close to the ferry, we have a 9 AM reservation for Sunday morning.  Like almost all of the campgrounds that we've stopped at since we left CT, this one was pretty empty.  Their season is really short, most are open from 6/15-9/15 - its hard to understand how they survive financially.  [Little Paradise RV Park - Port Aux Basques, Newfoundland - 47.46 N / 59.17 W]

We got up bright and early on Sunday morning and arrived at the ferry terminal at 8 AM, right on schedule.  The passengers were the only ones on time, as the ferry didn't get in until 11:05 and we left about 11:45, more then 2 hours late.  Our friends from Texas, Gene and Judy were also on the ferry and we spent most of the trip over shooting the breeze.  Norm managed to watch the World Cup soccer final with a crowd of others.  We arrived in North Sydney, Nova Scotia at about 6:30 p.m., and we drove off the ferry and just kept going.  Our friends Mo and Mary Guffy were probably with a caravan at a nearby campground.  We thought about stopping to visit, but we heard that there were 5 caravans there, and not a bit of space.  So we drove by, and drove past Baddeck and all the way to Antigonish, where we again stopped at the Visitor's Bureau for a free night of camping.  [Visitor's Bureau - Antigonish, Nova Scotia - 45.37 N / 61.59 W].

On Monday, 7/10 we got up, did some shopping at a supermarket, and hit the road.  It was the longest day on the road since 5/24, and we drove all the way through Nova Scotia and through part of the province of New Brunswick.  We didn't pick our campground until the last minute, and ended up at a large campground in the middle of a municipal park, right in the middle of Saint John.  There was a caravan of 24 RVs, and they were on their way up North for a 40 day trip.  Shelley spent most of the afternoon doing wash and getting things dried in the damp air, which ended up with dense fog late in the day.  There was lots to do in Saint John, so we set out on Tuesday morning to see the sights.  Downtown wasn't far away, so we drove over and parked our car.  Our first stop was the Jewish Museum of Saint John.  Norm found this one of the most memorable stops in almost 2 years of driving around.  In the 1960's there was a flourishing Jewish community in Saint John of about 2,500 families, and there were 2 congregations in town.  We were told that today there are about 25 or 30 Jewish families in town that are temple members.  According to a pamphlet, "In the 1970's and 1980's the community started diminishing with the migration of children to universities and opportunities in larger centres.  Often parents followed in their retirement years." The Hebrew school has 3 students, and the last Bar Mitzvah was 4 years ago.  The museum was created in 1986 "to preserve our heritage and to share with with the larger community."  We visited the synagogue of Congregation Shaarei Zedek, and it was beautiful, but it is only used during the high holidays.  It is too vast a building to heat in the wintertime with such a small congregation attending.  The rest of the time, services are held in a little chapel in the museum building.  Following this, we went to the City Market, where lots of meat and fresh fruit is sold, along with a potpourri of other stuff.  There are a number of little places to eat there. Among the more interesting foods for sale is Dulse.  This is a type of seaweed that grows naturally on rocks along the seacoast.  The Dulse is collected, dried for 6 hours and then eaten as a nosh, like potato chips.  Norm was brave enough to try it; it was very salty with a strange consistency, but he survived - Shelley wouldn't even consider tasting it!  We descended to an underground shopping mall that snaked through the downtown area and connected some aboveground businesses.  I guess it makes shopping easier during the cold winters.  We also stopped at the New Brunswick Museum which features a full length model (and also a skeleton) of a 49 foot long right whale which died about 12 years ago. It also had furnishings and artwork from New Brunswick and around the world.  We found it very interesting.  After that, we walked outside and found Barbours General Store.  It is a restored 19th century country store containing some 2,000 artifacts, including grocery items, china, farm tools and kitchen utensils.  It was jam packed with signs all over the place "Do Not Touch"!  We had a few more things to see, so we left the rig on Wednesday morning and headed out.  The AAA tour book mentioned a tour of a brewery with free samples, so we thought we'd do that.  But first we visited the Reversing Falls.  Imagine a water fall that dropped a river by12 feet as it entered a bay.  Now imagine the tides in the Bay of Fundy raising the water level by 20 feet.  Suddenly the water would flow up the river. Now, combine this with water depths that vary from 10-15 feet to over 150 feet, giving rise to whirlpools and eddies, and you get the Reversing Falls.  We were there at slack tide, so we didn't see the turmoil of rapid flows.  Next we drove a short distance to see the Carleton Martello Tower, a remnant from the War of 1812 placed on the highest point of Saint John, initially to help defend the city from American troops.  This circular tower, 4 stories high was used as a lookout in defense of the harbor from 1815 until the end of the 2nd World War.  While the views were impressive, the dense fog, which came and went during the whole time we were in Saint John, obscured most of the view.  I'm not sure if a lookout tower does much good if its fogged in.  That evening, at the campground, a caravan of old cars came for a visit.  There were about 15 or 20 antique cars, all in excellent shape.  [Rockwood Park - Saint John, New Brunswick - 45.18 N / 66.03 W] 

Shaarei Zedek small chapel

Shaarei Zedek main chapel

Shelley with the Dulse

Barbours General Store

Antique MG

On Thursday morning, 7/13,another foggy day, we hitched up our car and set out.  We had exchanged our Canadian money back for American on the previous day, but suddenly we were faced with a toll of $1.05 to cross the Saint John River.  I guess we weren't the first to face this, as the toll collector was glad to take American money.  The border crossing was at the Canadian town of St. Stephen, and it took us about an hour to inch through the town until we got through immigration.  We were worried that they were going to confiscate some of our food, but we escaped any such penalty.  The trip down the Maine Coast was slow, with the rain and drizzle combined with the narrow bumpy road called "Coastal Route 1".  We found our campground, pulled into our site and got all hooked up and leveled.  Then Shelley went to pay.....she came back irate, upset and really ticked.  Part of the sign in procedure included asking us if we had any pets.....when she told the office staff that we had a small dog, they told her that the dog couldn't be left alone in the coach. That's the first time that we heard that one.  They expected us to take Rags with us in the car wherever we went, regardless of the fact that there is a heat wave, 80 - 90 degrees outside.  We called a few other Bar Harbor Campgrounds, and they all had the same rule!!!  Norm went back up to the office and just told them we would follow all their rules, all the time knowing that we would be leaving Rags alone when we went sightseeing.  Who would know, as long as he stopped his barking relatively soon after we left.  So, we calmed down - or at least Shelley did....Norm stayed calm throughout!  We went out for dinner with our neighbors in the next campsite, who used to live not far from us in CT!!  Talk about a small world....  Anyway, we each had an "a la carte lobster" plus a salad bar for $17.98.  Not too bad!!  On Friday we went to Acadia National Park, a place of unspectacular beauty with incredible views and the well known Maine rocky coastline.  We had many great views of the coast, one from Cadillac Mountain, the highest point on the Atlantic seacoast at 1,500 feet.  Acadia was the first National Park east of the Mississippi, and is the only park composed entirely of land donated by private citizens.  They were the super rich, who built a society in Bar Harbor comparable to that of Newport, RI.  They bought the land themselves and then donated it to the federal government.  These huge mansions as well as much of the rest of the area were ruined in a large fire of 1947.  Following our travel around the loop road and trip to the top of Cadillac Mountain we drove into the town of Bar Harbor.  We were both unimpressed by the town.  It seems as if its nothing very different than all of the other touristy places that we've visited - too many shops and too many people.  We got a phone call from one of our RVing friends from Connecticut whom we've meet in Lafayette, Louisiana and now here in Maine.  We met them for dinner, along with their friend from Bar Harbor and went back to their friend's house.  We all got to talking and realized that each of the three couples has lost a child.  Our friend's son Patrick, died 18 years ago from an auto accident.  Their friend Bob lost his 4 hour old infant son from a medical mistake in the hospital.  Our beloved daughter Amy died almost 3 years ago - how can that be already???  It was so heart rendering to be able to speak about our grief and loss with others that can fully understand - and how sad that we each experienced such a life changing grief filled event.  [Bar Harbor Campground - Bar Harbor, Maine - 44.26 N / 68.16 W]    

View from the top of Cadillac Mountain

Shelley on top of Cadillac Mountain

Acadia National Park

View from the Loop Road

Sand Beach from the Loop Road

Boats at the dock in Bar Harbor