June 2006

Home Up

Shelley already put May on our Web Site, so this last day of May will be at the beginning of June.  Confused?  That's OK.  Our campground in Lunenberg, called the Lunenberg Board of Trade was somehow connected to the Visitor's Center for the town.  It was located on top of a hill.  We were parked on the crest, overlooking a beautiful part of their harbor.  We are the only ones in the campground because it is so early in the season.  It was a little weird.  The view, however, was breathtakingly beautiful.  At the visitor's center we picked up a brochure about a walking tour of Lunenburg.  We figured that we could handle it, so we drove downtown, parked the car and set out to see the sights.  Before we got to the first building, we were confused.  The map just showed which block the building was on, but didn't give us a clue as to which of the 4 sides of the block it was located.  But we persevered and got to see many old Victorian homes.  They were really interesting, many dating from the middle of the 19th century and earlier.  They were really neat just to see.  We stopped off at Large Marge's diner for a bite for lunch. - really that was the name of the place!  How could you not stop in for a bite??  Shelley had some Nova Scotia salmon locks (yes, that's the way they spelled lox) with cream cheese on a bagel, while Norm tried a local delicacy.  The dish was a daily special called turnip kraut with meat and potatoes.  The turnips were soaked overnight in a mixture of vinegar, brown sugar, water and pepper and the meat was sweet pickled pork.  The turnips definitely had a taste that resembled sauerkraut and the meat had a sweet and sour taste.  It was fun trying something new, but not sure if its on the list of pick hits of the week.  We then walked over to the Atlantic Fisheries Museum, which was a combination aquarium and museum. The aquarium displayed many of the fish from the area, and was small compared to local aquariums that we've seen in the States.  The museum was really interesting with many exhibits covering both the fishing industry in general and the local Lunenburg history.  The local history went from fishing off Squarerigger sailboats during the 18th century to rum running during prohibition to tourism now, Lunenburg has always been intimately connected to the sea.  The setting is really beautiful with scenic vistas everywhere. On June 1, we had a reasonably uneventful day.  We did 2 loads of wash and just sort of hung out, as the weather was pretty showery.  Late in the afternoon we found out that Bluenose II, a 180 foot long Canadian schooner based in Lunenberg, was due in port late in the afternoon.  We drove down to the harbor and waited for her arrival.  While waiting we spoke to the "shore captain" of Bluenose who is responsible for her when she is in Lunenburg and also does cruise planning for her.  She was really beautiful as she cruised into the harbor with a crew of 18.  Then, in the evening, Norm went sailing on Eastern Star, a 48 foot long ketch that takes people out on 2 hour cruises.  Although the wind was really light, Norm was at the wheel as the ship rounded a point and picked up a nice breeze.  Its been a long time since he went sailing, and he really enjoyed the opportunity.

Historical house

Another historical house

Eastern Star in Lunenberg Harbor

Fisheries Museum

Bluenose II

Another view of Bluenose II

Norm & Shelley at Lunenberg Harbor

On Friday, June 2, we drove the short distance to Grand Pre' on the northern coast of Nova Scotia.  We got our first glance at the famous Bay of Fundy and its tides which were relatively high at the time.  We also went out for dinner at the Evangeline Inn which had been recommended to us as being plain but good and also inexpensive.  Well, that hardly described the diner....the only things on the menu were soup, salad, sandwiches, hamburgers or the one special of the day, fried halibut.  THAT WAS IT.  Shelley didn't want the special, so she ordered a hamburger.  They didn't serve french fries, any kind of potato, no cole slaw, no nothing.  All she had on her plate was a Hamburger.  At least the desserts were good so it wasn't a total flop!!  Saturday was rainy all day, from drizzles to downpours.  During the morning, we got another look at the Bay of Fundy and the tides were much lower, with the waterline at least 200 feet further away.  After downloading our E-Mail at the local Visitors Bureau, we stopped at a local festival called the Apple Blossom Festival in Kentville.  Since the weather was so awful, we needed to find inside things to do, so we visited Grand-Pre National Historic Site. a museum.  When we were in Louisiana in March of 2005, we visited a museum in St. Martinville, that celebrated the arrival of the Acadians in that part of the U.S.  Well, the Grand-Pre museum told the story of the Acadians being forced to leave this part of the country.  Afterwards, while the rain was so very heavy, we took a mid-afternoon nap.  We went out for dinner at a local place that advertised that they were having live music at 7:30.  We got there at a little after 6.  Our dinners included 2 local specialties, Chicken Friton (a chicken soup that was almost as thick as a stew) and Rappie Pie (like Shepherd's Pie, except with chicken).  The band started arriving at about 6:50.  We couldn't believe that it took them until 8:05 PM before they started playing.  The number of electric wires and gizmos that they had was just hard to believe.  Sunday was just more continuation of heavy rains.  We sort of hung around for most of the day as it didn't make any sense to leave the RV.  There were puddles everywhere.  Finally the rain stopped in mid-afternoon and we decided to drive over to Hall's Harbor, about 45 minutes away.  When we first got there we couldn't see any boats.  As we parked our car and looked over at the tiny harbor, about 25 feet below the docks, were an assortment of boats on hard ground.  Obviously the tides were low, and we got the first dramatic look at the extent of the Bay of Fundy tides.  We awoke Monday, June 6, unaware of the unexpected that would take place on that day.  We packed up and disconnected the motorhome and started pulling out of our site.  All of a sudden we stopped forward progress and Shelley was waving her arms for me to stop.  You could guess what happen!  We were stuck in the mud.  They campground had a tractor on site, but the owner/operator was getting a hair cut!!  So we waited for his return, and after much pulling, we were free.  We left Grand Pre' on our way to Prince Edward Island.  [Grand Pre', Nova Scotia - Land Of Evangeline Family Camping - 45.08 N / 64.19 W]

Evangeline in front of the Memorial Church

Shelley with Poppies at the Grand Pre National Historic Site

Antique Store at Hall's Harbor

Hall's Harbor

Hall's Harbor

Bay of Fundy baseline (not high or low tide)

Bay of Fundy about 2 hours later

Bay of Fundy about 4 hours later

Just before we got to Prince Edward Island, we stopped at a Walmart in Amherst to get some money....but the machine wouldn't  accept our debit card.  We tried an ATM there and that didn't work either.  We were low on cash and didn't know where to get more!!  Shelley called the debit card company and after much frustration getting shuttled from person to machine to person, she had gotten absolutely nowhere.  How would this story end?  So we pressed onward, and soon took the 9 mile long Confederation Bridge to Prince Edward Island (PEI).  As we approached the bridge, we saw a sign that said the toll was $42, and that was about how much cash we had.  So....we kept going, hoping that they would take credit card or checks.  But our anxiety was unfounded, as we discovered that the toll was payable only upon leaving the island!  As soon as we arrived on PEI, we stopped at the Visitor's Bureau.  Not only did we collect an armful of brochures, but we also got two important pieces of information.  First, and most important, the woman behind the counter suggested that we look on the bottom of our debit cards.  Both of them listed the systems that the cards were good to use, such as "PLUS", "STAR" and "NYCE".  The ATM machine in the Visitor's Bureau did not list the systems our debit card used.  The woman at the Visitor's Center got out her wallet and checked out her debit/check cashing card. It was good on some of the same systems as our cards, and she told us that she banked at Scotia Bank....and gave us the location of the nearest Scotia Bank.  With many thanks to her, we headed off to the Bank and an ATM machine where we collected some cash.  Also, we learned at the Visitor's Bureau that there is a Walmart near Charlottetown where we could spend the evening for free. After 45 minutes or so, we arrived at the Walmart and settled down after an exciting day.  We went out for a delicious dinner at the Pilot House in downtown Charlottetown, a small city of about 35,000 population.  But there was one more exciting moment for that day.  Just for "haha's", Shelley turned on the computer and found we had WI-FI in the middle of a Walmart parking lot in Charlottetown, PEI!!!  What a hoot.  We both enjoyed quick and easy computer time as we read and wrote e-mails to friends and family.  But the next morning brought us to another adventure.  Shelley went into the WalMart to get a prescription renewed.  And guess what?  They will only fill or renew prescriptions written by Canadian physicians.  The pharmacist at Walmart gave us the address of a medical clinic in Charlottetown where we could get a Canadian prescription.  Well, when we finally found the clinic, there must have been 20 people waiting to see the doc, and Shelley decided not to wait.  [Charlottetown, PEI - Walmart - 46.16 N / 63.09 W - THE FURTHEST EAST WE'VE EVER BEEN]

We finally left the Walmart lot (and our WI-FI) and headed off to our next campground.  We had picked this campground (The Harrington RV Park) because it was close to Charlottetown and also because we belong to an organization called Passport America which gives us 50% off at certain campgrounds, including this one.  Well, deals are not always deals.  After paying our fee, the owner told us which site to park in, and we started getting settled.  But the site was so uneven and muddy from all that rain that we gave up after 30 minutes of frustration.  Fortunately they gave us our money back, and we drove up the road a few hundred yards to find another campground that worked much better, although there was no 50% off deal.  Shelley did  wash, and in the evening we spent time talking to Steve and Ivey who were camped right across from us. On Wednesday, June 7, we took a ride through the countryside.  There were farms on rolling hills and seaside fishing villages, with the scenery broken only by an occasional church, gas station or small collection of homes.  The churches were especially beautiful, with many unusual designs.  We also passed an area full of "Anne of Green Gables" tourist places.  The author of that book, Lucy Maud Montgomery lived and died in the area, and the locals are capitalizing on that to attract tourists.  We didn't stop at any of them, but people say that it is done rather tastefully.  Thursday was another day that dawned gray with torrential downpours.  But by early afternoon, the heavy rain gave way to scattered showers, so we went to downtown Charlottetown and took a tour of Founders Hall.  This is a display that shows the history of the founding of Canada and the joining of the provinces.  It was embarrassing how little we knew about this.  For example, representatives of the 3 maritime provinces (New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island) were scheduled to meet in the early 1860's about joining Canada.  There had previously been some discussions about all of Canada merging, but the people of Prince Edward Island were against it and refused to attend any meetings about the subject.  So instead, the others decided to schedule the meeting in Prince Edward Island.  There was general agreement about merger, but the details were only ironed out over the next 4 years.  Prince Edward Island still refused to join.  The last 2 provinces to join, Newfoundland and Nunavet (part of the Northwest Territory) didn't join Canada until the last half of the 20th century. Pretty neat stuff.  We stopped at a super market and bought 3 pounds of mussels for dinner.  When we got back to the campgrounds, our friend Steve was cooking 50 pounds of mussels!!  We helped him to take the meat out of the shells, and he gave us about 3 pounds of mussels.  Shelley cooked all 6 pounds, and we ate about 3 pounds and froze the rest.  On Friday we took another long drive to the eastern part of the island.  Our feeling was the same as from Wednesday's drive, the country is unspectacularly beautiful.  Norm climbed the Panmure Lighthouse, a 60 foot high lighthouse, and we had a delicious lunch at Windows on the Water, in Montague.  Later in the day, we had a special treat as Steve brought us 2 lobsters from among the potful he had made for a family gathering.  We were surprised that he put salt in the water rather then sugar.  After we cleaned up the shells and lobster "shmutz", we went to the Benevolent Irish Society for a Ceilidh (pronounced Kay-Lee).  Apparently this is the Irish word for kitchen.  It evolved from informal gatherings in kitchens to musical informal gatherings in a home-like setting.  So, this Ceilidh had about 60 people in the audience and 4 performers.  (Traditional Ceilidhs always have a fiddler, a vocalist, and guitar players, and the music is mostly Irish in origin).  The atmosphere was very informal, with the audience and the performers engaging in back and forth comments. At times, members of the audience would stand up and do some Irish step dancing.  At the break, they served "lunch", which consisted of sandwiches, cookies, coffee, and soda.  The 4 performers mingled with the audience, munching happily away. It was really fun.  It was supposed to rain on Saturday, but it stayed dry and we decided to return to downtown Charlottetown.  There was a party in Rochford Square celebrating the birthday of the city, and they were serving a free pancake breakfast for all, along with some entertainment.  The City Council members were even serving the food.  Can you imagine that in the States?  We then stopped at a Farmer's Market where we bought some blue potatoes!!  PEI is known for their potatoes and we had to try the blue ones!!  They are really bright blue (almost purple) when cut, although brown on the outside.  They tasted exactly like white potatoes, but added some nice color to the plate!!  While we were at the Farmer's Market, we met one of the Ceilidh performers at the market.  What fun.  Another unique thing we have found in the Maritimes is that on Sunday, everything is closed!  Walmart, the food stores, the mall, absolutely everything!  Reminds us of when we were kids and everything was closed on Sundays, too.  W did some food shopping on Monday, it rained again, and in the evening we went out to dinner at Dayboat with Helen and Paul Hughes, acquaintances from Deer Creek who live in Stratford, PEI, a suburb of Charlottesville. The food there was really great.  We also said goodbye to Steve and Ivy, since we were leaving the next morning.  [Harrington, Prince Edward Island - Pine Hills Campground - 46.21 N / 63.11 W] 

Lupins along side of the road (They are everywhere!)

Old Fashioned Windmill

Gaspereaux Harbor

Gaspereaux Harbor Fishing Shacks

Panmure Head Lighthouse

Montague Harbor view from our restaurant

Ceilidh performers

Our favorite Ceilidh performers

On Tuesday we were ready to leave by 9 AM on the sunny morning.  We were surprised to find a birthday present from Ivy and Steve for Shelley, whose birthday is on Friday.  We stopped at the Walmart to down load our computer using the available WI-FI and then set out on the short trip for the ferry to take us back to Nova Scotia.  The whole back of the boat opened up to let us on, and we were surprised to find they had multiple decks for parking vehicles. On our deck, there was room for 4 motorhomes, buses or trucks to park next to each other.  When we arrived back in Nova Scotia, the rain caught up with us, and again came down in buckets. So we stopped off at a Visitor's Center in Antigonish, about half way to our destination.  They said that we could the night in their parking lot.  So we couldn't turn that offer, and we made ourselves comfortable for the evening.  As a bonus, we were able to pick up WI-FI from a nearby motel.  [Antigonish, Nova Scotia - Visitor's Center - 45.37 N / 61.59 E].

Ferry with hatch open for cars to drive on

Ferry fully loaded, hatch closed

Wood Islands Lighthouse, taken from ferry

We got up on Wednesday morning, and after a last download of e-mails, we set off for Baddeck, on Cape Breton Island.  The trip followed the Trans-Canada Highway along the coast of St. Patrick's Channel and over small mountains.  We checked into our campsite, had lunch and then decided to do some sightseeing.  We drove into Baddeck and visited the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site.  We learned several really interesting facts about Alexander Graham Bell.  First is that he was a teacher of the deaf, and knew Helen Keller really well.  It was while he was working on helping the deaf that he invented the telephone.  Secondly, he invented many things other than the telephone.  He was involved in aviation, and participated in the first flight in the British Empire in 1908.  He also designed a hydrofoil which held the record for the fastest power boat for 10 years.  Even after becoming famous for his invention of the telephone, he kept up his work with teaching the deaf.  Our satellite TV doesn't work here even though we were further north when we were on PEI.  Perhaps there is a mountain or something in the way.  Oh well, we know we won't have TV on Newfoundland, so we might just as well get used to it.  Thursday was...guess what...another rainy day.  We did some errands in town during the morning and Shelley downloaded e-mails.  The entire downtown area of Baddeck is a hot spot for WI-FI.  Late in the afternoon we went to visit our friends, Barry and June Blackman, who live in a (fancy) log cabin in town.  While chatting for a few hours, we found out that June's father had actually been on the beach when Alexander Graham Bell and his friends flew that plane in 1908.  We had a delicious dinner at the Silver Dart, and just as important, they had a WI-FI hot spot so Shelley could again download E-mail.   [Baddeck - Baddeck Cabot Trail Campground - 46.05 N / 60.51 E - Our furthest east so far]

Baddeck Lighthouse

Harbor view from the Alexander Graham Bell Museum

Friday morning was most unusual as we got up in the morning to find a blue sky!!!  How unusual, we thought maybe we should take a picture!  We had decided to leave our motorhome at the campground while we "did" the Cabot Trail and the Cape Breton National Park.  After packing Rags and some clothes, we set out to drive the Cabot Trail which circumvents the upper portion of Cape Breton Island.  First things first, however, so we went to the Silver Dart to again download our E-mail.  Our first stop was in Northeast Margaree where we visited the Salmon Fishermen's Museum.  For $2 we saw a collection of rods, reels, flies, pictures of fish and fishermen.  To be fair, you really needed to know about fly fishing to get much out of the exhibit.  After we left Margaree, while driving along the Gulf of St. Lawrence, we stopped at Joe's Scarecrow Village in Cap Le Moine.  Over 100 scarecrows are on display, including presidents and firemen and the world's smallest scarecrow.  It was really a funny place to be.  We chatted with the man who owned it, he was an Acadian.  He took over the exhibit from his father, who started it about 30 years ago.  Shelley found herself standing in between 2 ex-Republican Presidents, quite a sight, I assure you!  In Cheticamp, we stopped at an Acadian restaurant where Norm had meat pie for lunch.  All the wait staff were bilingual, but spoke their Acadian French amongst themselves.  We also visited St. Peter's Church which was built in 1893 for $41,950.  The church is 212 feet long, 74 feet wide and the steeples are 167 feet high.  Quite unbelievable in a town of only 1,000 people, hard to imagine they can support it.  We continued along the shore until we entered Cape Breton Highlands National Park.  The scenery here is quite spectacular, as we passed through mountains up to 1,500 feet high.  We parked for a while and took a short hike up and down some hills until we got a great sight of the water.  This bay, called Fishing Cove, was 1,000 feet below the road.  Once this lonely spot was a thriving farming and fishing community, complete with a lobster cannery.  By 1915. most of those families had moved to the surrounding communities.  It is now a wilderness campground, once reached by a 15 mile hike.  A short distance later took us to Pleasant Bay, a tiny town of 300 people (1/2 of that in the winter) where we stayed at a Bed and Breakfast.  The owner, Anna treated us like royalty, we had a lovely room and she really spoiled us.  She made us a beautiful dinner - it wasn't part of the deal but Shelley groomed her Shih Tzu as a barter deal - she made her a birthday cake as Friday was Shelley's birthday.  We took a walk at sunset to the beach while she kept Rags, and for breakfast we had a beautiful fresh fruit salad and homemade french toast (she baked her own bread) served exquisitely.  We really didn't want to leave!!  Shelley & Anna had a lot in common - she's even shorter than Shelley, and also loves to sew, cook, does needlepoint, has almost the identical dog - same color, same size, it was too cute, loves to read - we had a nice time.  In the morning (6 a.m.) Shelley was out walking Rags and somebody honked and waved and called her Anna before they realized it wasn't her!  Too funny....To make it even more unusual, Anna's husband is in the Navy so she lives alone 3 weeks out of every month and she has no car.  Her family lives very close by and they are quite close knit.  Our stay at Highland Breeze was just what a stay at a B&B should be like.  We felt like we were leaving from a visit with family rather then a stay at a hotel.  It was really neat - Anna pulled it off perfectly.  [Highland Breeze B & B - Pleasant Bay Nova Scotia - 46.49.477 N / 60.47.87 W].  After leaving Pleasant Bay, the road ascended to the peaks of coastal mountains and then plunged down to the sea.  It was really dramatic...the trip is known as one of the most beautiful in North America. After sometime we came to a turn-off for Meat Cove.  This is known for the animals that roamed the area who were shot and then sent to passing boats to provide protein for the crew.  It "felt like the end of the earth".  Amazingly, the brochure for Meat Cove had a number of quotes in it from previous visitors and one quote was from "LC from Highland Park, NJ"!!!  It lies at the end of a daunting 12 km (7 mile)  mostly unpaved road along a precipitous cliff marked by sudden switchbacks.  Its spectacular" - quoted from Fodor.  [Meat Cove, Nova Scotia - 47.02 N / 60.34 W].  We also had a wonderful drive up and down Smoky Mountain just entering the town of Ingonish.  We drove back into Baddeck, stopped off to download E-Mail, and then stopped off for dinner at a local Masons dinner.  The dinner included salt cod, baked potatoes, some kind of salt pork and onion mixture, a teaspoon full of mashed turnips, peas and carrots - it didn't sit well with Shelley as she eats none of that stuff!!  Norm continued to clean his plate but agreed that he wouldn't order that again!  At least we felt that we were supporting the community, but Shelley felt queasy most of the night and she only took 2 bites.  We finally returned to the campground late Saturday afternoon.    

Margaree Salmon Museum

Joe's Scarecrow Village

More Scarecrows

Shelley standing arm & arm with 2 Republican Presidents!!

Exterior of St. Peter's Catholic Church

Interior of St. Peter's

All signage is bi-lingual

Cape Breton

Another view

Fishing Cove, where a thriving village once lived. It is now a wilderness campground.

We went for a hike in the woods

A view from our hike

An eagle soaring overhead

We saw a fin whale while having a picnic lunch at Meat Cove

Norm at Meat Cove

Moose Racks hammered to a tree

Pleasant Bay shoreline

Shelley & Anna, the owner of the B&B

Rags & Shakespeare

Shelley & Norm at the Highland Breeze B&B

We had a relatively quiet day on Sunday.  Shelley stayed around the campsite, took two naps, and did some wash and cleaned up.  Norm spent most of the time around the motorhome and took a short trip to a nearby Indian reservation of about 500 people.  There wasn't much to see in the museum, so it was a short outing.  In the evening, we made a campfire and had a nice evening with Joyce, Sharon and Richard, southern Californians who were parked next to us in their 5th wheel.  The following day the 5 of us took a boatride out to the Bird Islands, a sanctuary where there were different types of gulls and puffins in residence.  The water was really rough, so it was tough to get good pictures of the birds or gray seals in residence on the islands.  During the trip, the crew through some fish off the boat, and we were twice treated to the sight of bald eagles swooping down and grabbing the fish with their talons and taking off again.  Really spectacular.  The crew of the tour boat also are lobster fishermen.  That is a hard working job, but in 2-3 months they can earn $100,000. During the first two weeks of July they are awake by 3 AM, go out lobstering until 10 AM, and then run 3 three hour trips out to Bird Islands.  They work really hard and also make lots of money.  Each day, they use 300 pounds of mackerel for bait for catching lobster.  Imagine how much mackerel they need at the beginning of the lobster season.  On Tuesday, Richard and Norm went back to the dock and bought, for the five of us, 10 lobsters for dinner right off the boat for $6.50 per pound. In the afternoon, we drove a short distance to Highland Village in Iona, Nova Scotia.  This demonstration village chronicles the change in the life of Gaelic speaking Scotsmen who migrated to sections of Cape Breton Island in nearby Nova Scotia.  The village was relatively interesting as were discussions with some of the docents there.  Like many rural areas, many of the younger people are leaving for areas with greater economic opportunity.  As this happens, the chances for the continuation of the Gaelic language and traditions decreases.  In the evening, Richard, Joyce and Sharon joined us between our coaches for a wonderful lobster dinner.  We had a great time prying out the lobster meat with hammers, screw drivers and needle nose pliers.  Richard bought some nut crackers at a local hardware store earlier in the day, and the lobster shells were so tough that the nut cracker actually broke.  We had another campfire between the 2 rigs and just enjoyed each other's company.  

Eagle soaring

Norm & Shelley at the Lobster "feed"

Shelley & Richard with our "friends"

Norm, Joyce, Sharon & Richard

On Thursday morning we drove to North Sydney, Nova Scotia since it was close to the docks for the Newfoundland ferry.  We got there early since Norm wanted to watch the US soccer team play in the World Cup.  While the game was on, Shelley did some shopping and also got a haircut.  It was enjoyable for her to find a real town after all these past few weeks.  She hit the local Walmart and went to Sobey's (a Canadian food shopping chain) to buy groceries.  After dinner we got together with Jim and Stephanie, friends from Western North Carolina whom we had met at an earlier campground, and drove around for a bit.  Of course, we couldn't pass by the local ice cream place.  Friday morning dawned foggy and cold and drizzly, but we decided to go ahead with our plans to visit the nearby recreation of the Fortress of Louisbourg.  The fortress was originally built by the French starting in 1713, captured by the British in 1745, returned to France in 1749, and recaptured by the British in 1758.  Each time that it was captured by the British all of the French citizens were sent back to France and then they returned when the French took over again.  Interestingly enough, early on Louisbourg was the administrative capital of French holdings in Atlantic Canada, which was limited to Prince Edward Island and Cape Breton Island.  The whole area was reconstructed beginning about 1961.  It is similar to Williamsburg Virginia in some ways, with docents everywhere in period costumes and some demonstrations going on.  The reconstructed community and its inhabitants is intended to be representative of life there in 1744.  However, it is on a much smaller scale than Williamsburg, and it is also not a place where modern people actually live. [North Sydney - Arm of Gold Campground - 46.15 N / 60.17 W] 

a depiction of Louisbourg Fortress

Part of the walled in town

Townsman

soldier

Catholic Chapel

soldier accompanying the cannoneers

We were up and out reasonably early on Saturday morning (6/24) since we were supposed to be at the dock by 8 AM to take the ferry to Newfoundland.  We were hoping that our friends from Baddeck, Richard, Sharon and Joyce, would be there to join is for the trip, but too bad, they weren't there.  The ferry was really huge.  The 4th deck was just for cars, and the 3rd deck was for trucks and RVs.  It was big enough that there was plenty of room for 4 RVs/trucks to park next to each other.  The ride was 6 hours long, as we traveled almost due north for 100 miles.  But the trip went quickly, as there was live entertainment, WI-FI, and a free movie.  When we arrived in Port Au Basques we stopped at the Visitor's Bureau to collect brochures and traveled a short distance up the road to our campground.  Sunday was a little foggy out, and we decided to take a ride around Codroy Valley.  The campground manager gave us an article about a circular trip which he recommended. There were descriptions of interesting places to stop and visit along the way.  Well, the artivle must have been a figment of the imagination of the local Chamber of Commerce.  Interesting sounding shops turned out to be broken down businesses, many of them closed. Since the weather cleared out, we decided to travel south and then east to visit the lighthouse at Rose Blanche.  The lighthouse was originally put into service in 1873 and remained active for more than 70 years. In 1993 a local group of citizens banded together to raise funds so that the lighthouse could be refurbished.  We had to hike to the lighthouse along a very rocky path.  Along the way, you could see the Petites, a village on the tip of the land.  This village, along with many others, did not have any way to get in or out, other than by boat.  When we got to the lighthouse, we lmet a lovely docent named Leah.  She spoke with a very heavy accent and we found it hard to understand her.  The accent was unlike any we had heard so far in Canada, I thought it sounded very Irish or Scottish.  She told us a lot about the refurbishing of the lighthouse.  When it was rebuilt, they used as much of the old granite as they could and the rest was taken from the very granite on which it stands.  Leah told us about her home in West Point, Newfoundland, further east along the coast.  The village could be reached only by boat and about 120 people lived there.  Eventually it became too difficult to provide schooling and other services to the residents, so the government bought them out and helped to resettle them in other communities.  She still has a summer cabin there, and she and her husband (along with many other of the ex-residents) spend time in West Point each summer.  Back at the campground, during the evening, we met a couple with their 2 children.  This gentleman has a secured WI-FI dish on his motorhome, but he removed the security so we could download our e-mails and get on the internet.  He maintains a web site called RVParkReviews.Com.  We also rented the movie "The Aviator" with Leonardo DiCaprio as we have no satellite tv and nothing came on through the antenna.  [Doyles, Newfoundland - Grand Codroy RV Park - 47.50 N / 59.12 W]

View from campsite at Grand Codroy

The fishing village of Rose Blanche

Another view of Rose Blanche

View from the lighthouse towards the harbor

Rose Blanche lighthouse

On the trail to the lighthouse, looking towards the Petites

On Monday we packed up and hit the road again for a 120 mile jaunt further north to the town of Corner Brook, 2nd largest (after St. Johns) in Newfoundland with a population of about 35,000.  We traveled on the Trans Canada Highway which sounds as if it should be a fancy 4 lane limited access highway.  In reality, it was one lane in each direction with many bumps that caused us to slow down to 30 miles per hour or so.  We found our campground with ease, and got set up.  We then took a trip into downtown Corner Brook, but it was a holiday - Discovery Day in Newfoundland - and most everything was closed.  Shelley was tired, so she came back and took a nap, but Norm took a drive out the north side of the Bay of Islands, which seemed like a fjord, with hills on either side of the Bay and little towns perched on the side of the hills. It was really pretty.  Later on we met Lynne West for dinner.  Norm met Lynne on an internet site where Lynne keeps busy promoting tourism in Newfoundland by RVers.  She is 63, widowed and a librarian in Corner Brook.  She camps in a tiny little fiberglass cabin that fits on the back of her pick-up truck.  For us, she is really amazing, but she treats it as a normal everyday thing.  She just does her camping thing with her 2 Chesapeake Bay Retrievers, each about 75 pounds.  She plans on going to Alaska with her dogs in about 2 years, after she retires and moved to Prince Edward Island.  She is originally from Pennsylvania but has lived in Canada for over 20 years.  When we got back to the campground we hooked up with Peter and Marie Wheeler who we met in Baddeck.  Since our plans for the next week or so were pretty similar, we agreed to travel together for awhile.  [Kinsmen Prince Edward Campground - Corner Brook, Newfoundland - 48.58 N / 57.54 W ]  

On Tuesday morning, we set off for our next stop in Gros Morne National Park.  The trip was pretty short, and we arrived at our campground reasonably early.  We spent the time in Gros Morne doing most things with Peter and Marie.  We drove north a short distance to Lobster Point Lighthouse.  There we met the docent who also gives talks at the fishing hut of the Mudge family, fishermen who lived there a number of years ago.  We also found a place where Cambrian and Ordivician era rocks are exposed and easily datable from the fossils imbedded in the rocks.  For dinner, we ate at the campground restaurant where Norm had a bowl of moose soup.  Tuesday night was hard to sleep as the wind was blowing at least 35 mph and the motorhome was rocking all night...just like the boat. On Wednesday morning we heard the same docent, her name was Louise, talk about the her life as one of the very few women fishing fulltime.  She told us how the other fishermen treated her as a pariah, as women on boats were bad luck.  She also discussed the Mudge family and their life as fishermen.  They also worked incredibly hard, and they also made a pretty good living.  The 10 members of the Mudge family lived together during the summer in a tiny cabin that measured 16 feet by 26 feet.  After that, we stopped off briefly to see the remains of a ship wrecked on the rocky coast in 1919, and Shelley just could not resist collecting some rocks.  In the afternoon, we drove a short distance to Norris Point.  There we passed a beautiful vista and a souvenir shop advertising a "Mug Up".  We had no idea what that was so.....a Mug Up is an afternoon snack of tea, bread and molasses.  We had to try it....  and then went on to visit a marine station where a college students study marine animals that live in the area.  Marie made delicious stew for us for dinner and then, at dusk, we drove around "moose hunting".  We'd been hearing how many moose there were around and we hadn't seen any yet.  We were still unlucky, as no moose were visible.  Then, at 9:30 we went to a local motel pub for a performance by Anchors Aweigh, a local group that put on a performance playing "Newfie" songs.  They were really fun, and the 4 of us had a great time.  On Thursday, after convincing Rags we needed to sleep in a bit, we continued on our plans to take a boat ride on Western Brook.  We drove up, parked the car, and walked about 1 1/2 miles to the boat dock.  On the way, we finally got to see our first moose and it was only about 20 feet away.  That was pretty exciting.  When we got to the dock, the fog ceiling started to lower, and by the scheduled departure of 1 PM, the ceiling was probably less than 100 feet.  After a few minutes, the captain announced that the trip was cancelled because of the visibility, so we all walked back to the cars.  It was a pretty walk through fields, meadows and peat bogs, and not too strenuous, so we at least enjoyed that.  By the time we returned to Rocky Harbour we decided to buy lobsters for dinner, so we drove to the fish market at the edge of town and bought lobsters and mussels.  We took a break during the late afternoon, and cooked our meal in the little shelter in the campground with power and a woodburning stove.  We got permission to use it for dinner, so Norm built a fire in the stove, and we cooked our lobster and ate dinner there.  It made it easy to clean up and kept our coaches clean.  [Gros Morne Campground and Restaurant - Rocky Harbour, Newfoundland - 49.35 N / 57.55W]  

It was very windy!

Gros Morne - Rocky Harbor Lighthouse

Green Point rocks

Typical street sign in Newfoundland

Moose sighting!!

Different view - same moose!

Norm & Shelley on a 2-1/2 mile hike. I'm still smiling!

Mudge Family fishing shed

View from the Mug Up

Shelley at the old fashioned stove at the Mug Up

Norm, Marie & Peter with the lobsters

Rags enjoying the heat from the woodstove