
Shelley already put May on our Web Site, so this last
day of May will be at the beginning of June. Confused? That's OK.
Our campground in Lunenberg, called the Lunenberg Board of Trade was somehow
connected to the Visitor's Center for the town. It was located on top of a
hill. We were parked on the crest, overlooking a beautiful part of their
harbor. We are the only ones in the campground because it is so early in
the season. It was a little weird. The view, however, was
breathtakingly beautiful. At the visitor's center we picked up a brochure about a walking tour of Lunenburg.
We figured that we could handle it, so we drove downtown, parked the car and set
out to see the sights. Before we got to the first building, we were confused.
The map just showed which block the building was on, but didn't give us a clue
as to which of the 4 sides of the block it was located. But we persevered
and got to see many old Victorian homes. They were really interesting,
many dating from the middle of the 19th century and earlier. They were
really neat just to see. We stopped off at Large Marge's diner for a
bite for lunch. - really that was the name of the place! How could you not
stop in for a bite?? Shelley had some Nova Scotia salmon locks (yes, that's the
way they spelled lox) with cream cheese on a bagel, while Norm tried a local
delicacy. The dish was a daily special called turnip kraut with meat and
potatoes. The turnips were soaked overnight in a mixture of vinegar, brown
sugar, water and pepper and the meat was sweet pickled pork. The turnips
definitely had a taste that resembled sauerkraut and the meat had a sweet and
sour taste. It was fun trying something new, but not sure if its on the
list of pick hits of the week. We then walked over to the Atlantic
Fisheries Museum, which was a combination aquarium and museum. The aquarium
displayed many of the fish from the area, and was small compared to local
aquariums that we've seen in the States. The museum was really
interesting with many exhibits covering both the fishing industry in general and
the local Lunenburg history. The local history went from fishing off
Squarerigger sailboats during the
18th century to rum running during prohibition to tourism now,
Lunenburg has always been intimately connected to the sea. The setting is
really beautiful with scenic vistas everywhere. On June 1, we had a reasonably
uneventful day. We did 2 loads of wash and just sort of hung out, as the
weather was pretty showery. Late in the afternoon we found out that
Bluenose II, a 180 foot long Canadian schooner based in Lunenberg, was due in
port late in the afternoon. We drove down to the harbor and waited for her
arrival. While waiting we spoke to the "shore captain" of Bluenose who is
responsible for her when she is in Lunenburg and also does cruise planning for
her. She was really beautiful as she cruised into the harbor with a crew
of 18. Then, in the evening, Norm went sailing on Eastern Star, a 48 foot
long ketch that takes people out on 2 hour cruises. Although the wind was
really light, Norm was at the wheel as the ship rounded a point and picked up a
nice breeze. Its been a long time since he went sailing, and he really
enjoyed the opportunity.
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Historical house
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Another historical house
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Eastern Star in Lunenberg Harbor
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Fisheries Museum
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Bluenose II
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Another view of Bluenose II
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Norm & Shelley at Lunenberg Harbor
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On Friday, June 2, we drove the short distance to Grand
Pre' on the northern coast of Nova Scotia. We got our first glance at the
famous Bay of Fundy and its tides which were relatively high at the time. We also went out for dinner at the
Evangeline Inn which had been recommended to us as being plain but good and also
inexpensive. Well, that hardly described the diner....the
only things on the menu were soup, salad, sandwiches, hamburgers or the one special
of the day, fried halibut. THAT WAS IT. Shelley didn't want the
special, so she ordered a hamburger. They didn't serve french fries, any
kind of potato, no cole slaw, no nothing. All she had on her plate was a
Hamburger. At least the desserts were good so
it wasn't a total flop!! Saturday was rainy all day, from drizzles to
downpours. During the morning, we got another look at the Bay of Fundy and
the tides were much lower, with the waterline at least 200 feet further away.
After downloading our E-Mail at the local
Visitors Bureau, we stopped at a local festival called the Apple Blossom
Festival in Kentville. Since the weather was so awful, we needed to find
inside things to do, so we visited Grand-Pre National Historic
Site. a museum. When we were in Louisiana in March of 2005, we visited a museum in St. Martinville, that
celebrated the arrival of the Acadians in that part of the U.S. Well, the
Grand-Pre museum told the story of the Acadians being forced to leave this part of the
country. Afterwards, while the rain was so very heavy, we took a
mid-afternoon nap. We went out for dinner at a local place that advertised
that they were having live music at 7:30. We got there at a little after
6. Our dinners included 2 local specialties, Chicken Friton (a chicken
soup that was almost as thick as a stew) and Rappie Pie (like Shepherd's Pie,
except with chicken). The band started arriving at about 6:50. We
couldn't believe that it took them until 8:05 PM before they started playing.
The number of electric wires and gizmos that they had was just hard to believe.
Sunday was just
more continuation of heavy rains. We sort of hung around for most of the
day as it didn't make any sense to leave the RV. There were puddles
everywhere. Finally the rain stopped in mid-afternoon and we decided to
drive over to Hall's Harbor, about 45 minutes away. When we first got
there we couldn't see any boats. As we parked our car and looked over at
the tiny harbor, about 25 feet below the docks, were an assortment
of boats on hard ground. Obviously the tides were low, and we got the
first dramatic look at the extent of the Bay of Fundy tides. We awoke
Monday, June 6, unaware of the unexpected that would take place on that day.
We packed up and disconnected the motorhome and started pulling out of our site.
All of a sudden we stopped forward progress and Shelley was waving her arms for
me to stop. You could guess what happen! We were stuck in the mud.
They campground had a tractor on site, but the owner/operator was getting a hair cut!!
So we waited for his return, and after much pulling, we were free. We left
Grand Pre' on our way to Prince Edward Island. [Grand Pre',
Nova Scotia - Land Of Evangeline Family Camping - 45.08 N / 64.19 W]
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Evangeline in front of the Memorial Church
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Shelley with Poppies at the Grand Pre National Historic Site
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Antique Store at Hall's Harbor
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Hall's Harbor
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Hall's Harbor
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Bay of Fundy baseline (not high or low tide)
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Bay of Fundy about 2 hours later
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Bay of Fundy about 4 hours later
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Just before we got to Prince Edward Island, we
stopped at a Walmart in Amherst to get some money....but the machine wouldn't accept our debit card. We tried an ATM there and that didn't work either.
We were low on cash and didn't know where to get more!!
Shelley called the debit card company and after much frustration getting
shuttled from person to machine to person, she had gotten absolutely nowhere.
How would this story end? So we pressed onward, and soon took the 9 mile
long Confederation Bridge to Prince Edward Island (PEI). As we approached
the bridge, we saw a sign that said the toll was $42, and that was about how
much cash we had. So....we kept going, hoping that they would take credit
card or checks. But our anxiety was unfounded, as we discovered that the
toll was payable only upon leaving the island! As soon as we arrived on
PEI, we stopped at the Visitor's Bureau. Not only did we collect an armful
of brochures, but we also got two important pieces of information. First,
and most important, the woman behind the counter suggested that we look on the
bottom of our debit cards. Both of them listed the systems that the cards
were good to use, such as "PLUS", "STAR" and "NYCE".
The ATM machine in the Visitor's Bureau did not list the systems our debit card
used. The woman at the Visitor's Center got out her wallet and checked out her
debit/check cashing card. It was good on some of the same systems as our cards,
and she told us that she banked at Scotia Bank....and gave us the location of
the nearest Scotia Bank. With many thanks to her, we headed off
to the Bank and an ATM machine where we collected some cash. Also, we
learned at the Visitor's Bureau that there is a Walmart near Charlottetown where we could
spend the evening for free. After 45 minutes or so, we arrived at the Walmart
and settled down after an exciting day. We went out for a delicious dinner
at the Pilot House in downtown Charlottetown, a small city of about 35,000
population. But there was one more exciting moment for that day.
Just for "haha's", Shelley turned on the computer and found we had WI-FI in the
middle of a Walmart parking lot in Charlottetown, PEI!!! What a hoot.
We both enjoyed quick and easy computer time as we read and wrote e-mails to friends and
family. But the next morning brought us to another adventure.
Shelley went into the WalMart to get a prescription renewed. And guess
what? They will only fill or renew prescriptions written by Canadian
physicians. The pharmacist at Walmart gave us the address of a medical clinic
in Charlottetown where we could get a Canadian prescription. Well, when we
finally found the clinic, there must have been 20 people waiting to see the doc,
and Shelley decided not to wait. [Charlottetown, PEI - Walmart - 46.16 N
/ 63.09 W - THE FURTHEST EAST WE'VE EVER BEEN]
We finally left the Walmart lot (and our WI-FI) and
headed off to our next campground. We had picked this campground (The Harrington
RV Park) because it was close to Charlottetown and also because we belong to an
organization called Passport America which gives us 50% off at certain
campgrounds, including this one. Well, deals are not always deals.
After paying our fee, the owner told us which site to park in, and we started
getting settled. But the site was so uneven and muddy from all that rain
that we gave up after 30 minutes of frustration. Fortunately they gave us
our money back, and we drove up the road a few hundred yards to find another
campground that worked much better, although there was no 50% off deal.
Shelley did wash, and in the evening we spent time talking to Steve and
Ivey who were camped right across from us. On Wednesday, June 7, we took a ride
through the countryside. There were farms on rolling hills and seaside
fishing villages, with the scenery broken only by an occasional church, gas
station or small collection of homes. The churches were especially
beautiful, with many unusual designs. We also passed an area full of "Anne
of Green Gables" tourist places. The author of that book, Lucy Maud
Montgomery lived and died in the area, and the locals are capitalizing on that
to attract tourists. We didn't stop at any of them, but people
say that it is done rather tastefully. Thursday was another day that dawned
gray with torrential downpours. But by early afternoon, the heavy rain
gave way to scattered showers, so we went to downtown Charlottetown and took a
tour of Founders Hall. This is a display that shows the history of the
founding of Canada and the joining of the provinces. It was embarrassing
how little we knew about this. For example, representatives of the 3
maritime provinces (New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island) were
scheduled to meet in the early 1860's about joining Canada. There had previously
been some discussions about all of Canada merging, but the people of Prince
Edward Island were against it and refused to attend any meetings about the
subject. So instead, the others decided to schedule the meeting in Prince
Edward Island. There was general agreement about merger, but the details
were only ironed out over the next 4 years. Prince Edward Island
still refused to join. The last 2 provinces to join, Newfoundland and Nunavet (part of the Northwest Territory) didn't join Canada until the last half
of the 20th century. Pretty neat stuff. We stopped at a super market and
bought 3 pounds of mussels for dinner. When we got back to the
campgrounds, our friend Steve was cooking 50 pounds of mussels!! We helped
him to take the meat out of the shells, and he gave us about 3 pounds of
mussels. Shelley cooked all 6 pounds, and we ate about 3 pounds and froze
the rest. On Friday we took another long drive to the eastern part of the
island. Our feeling was the same as from Wednesday's drive, the country is
unspectacularly beautiful. Norm climbed the Panmure Lighthouse, a 60 foot high lighthouse, and we
had a delicious lunch at Windows on the Water, in Montague. Later in
the day, we had a special treat as Steve brought us 2 lobsters from among the potful he had made for a family gathering. We were surprised that he put
salt in the water rather then sugar. After we cleaned up the shells and
lobster "shmutz", we went to the Benevolent Irish Society for a Ceilidh
(pronounced Kay-Lee). Apparently this is the Irish word for kitchen.
It evolved from informal gatherings in kitchens to musical informal gatherings
in a home-like setting. So, this Ceilidh had about 60 people in the
audience and 4 performers. (Traditional Ceilidhs always have a fiddler, a
vocalist, and guitar players, and the music is mostly Irish in origin).
The atmosphere was very informal, with the audience and the performers engaging
in back and forth comments. At times, members of the audience would stand up
and do some Irish step dancing. At the break, they served "lunch", which
consisted of sandwiches, cookies, coffee, and soda. The 4 performers mingled with the audience,
munching happily away. It was really fun.
It was supposed to rain on Saturday, but it stayed dry and we decided to return
to downtown Charlottetown. There was a party in Rochford Square
celebrating the birthday of the city, and they were serving a free pancake breakfast for all,
along with some entertainment. The City Council members were even serving
the food. Can you imagine that in the States? We then stopped at a
Farmer's Market where we bought some blue potatoes!! PEI is known for
their potatoes and we had to try the blue ones!! They are really bright
blue (almost purple) when cut, although brown on the outside. They tasted
exactly like white potatoes, but added some nice color to the plate!!
While we were at the Farmer's Market, we met one of the Ceilidh performers at the
market. What fun. Another unique thing we have found in the
Maritimes is that on Sunday, everything is closed! Walmart, the food
stores, the mall, absolutely everything! Reminds us of when we were kids
and everything was closed on Sundays, too. W did some food shopping
on Monday, it rained again, and in the evening we went out to dinner at Dayboat
with Helen and Paul Hughes, acquaintances from Deer Creek who live in Stratford,
PEI, a suburb of Charlottesville. The food there was really great. We also
said goodbye to Steve and Ivy, since we were leaving the next morning. [Harrington, Prince Edward Island -
Pine Hills Campground - 46.21 N / 63.11 W]
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Lupins along side of the road (They are everywhere!)
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Old Fashioned Windmill
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Gaspereaux Harbor
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Gaspereaux Harbor Fishing Shacks
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Panmure Head Lighthouse
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Montague Harbor view from our restaurant
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Ceilidh performers
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Our favorite Ceilidh performers
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On Tuesday we were ready to leave by 9 AM on the sunny
morning. We were surprised to find a birthday present from Ivy and Steve
for Shelley, whose birthday is on Friday. We stopped at the Walmart to
down load our computer using the available WI-FI and then set out on the short
trip for the ferry to take us back to Nova Scotia. The whole back of the
boat opened up to let us on, and we were surprised to find they had multiple
decks for parking vehicles. On our deck, there was room for 4 motorhomes, buses
or trucks to park next to each other. When we arrived back in Nova Scotia,
the rain caught up with us, and again came down in buckets. So we stopped off at
a Visitor's Center in Antigonish, about half way to our destination. They
said that we could the night in their parking lot. So we couldn't turn
that offer, and we made ourselves comfortable for the evening. As a bonus,
we were able to pick up WI-FI from a nearby motel. [Antigonish, Nova
Scotia - Visitor's Center - 45.37 N / 61.59 E].
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Ferry with hatch open for cars to drive on
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Ferry fully loaded, hatch closed
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Wood Islands Lighthouse, taken from ferry
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We got up on Wednesday morning, and after a last
download of e-mails, we set off for Baddeck, on Cape Breton Island. The
trip followed the Trans-Canada Highway along the coast of St. Patrick's Channel
and over small mountains. We checked into our campsite, had lunch and then
decided to do some sightseeing. We drove into Baddeck and visited the
Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site. We learned several really
interesting facts about Alexander Graham Bell. First is that he was a
teacher of the deaf, and knew Helen Keller really well. It was while he
was working on helping the deaf that he invented the telephone. Secondly,
he invented many things other than the telephone. He was involved in
aviation, and participated in the first flight in the British Empire in 1908.
He also designed a hydrofoil which held the record for the fastest power boat
for 10 years. Even after becoming famous for his invention of the
telephone, he kept up his work with teaching the deaf. Our satellite TV
doesn't work here even though we were further north when we were on PEI.
Perhaps there is a mountain or something in the way. Oh well, we know we
won't have TV on Newfoundland, so we might just as well get used to it.
Thursday was...guess what...another rainy day. We did some errands in town
during the morning and Shelley downloaded e-mails. The entire downtown
area of Baddeck is a hot spot for WI-FI. Late in the afternoon we went to
visit our friends, Barry and June Blackman, who live in a (fancy) log cabin in
town. While chatting for a few hours, we found out that June's father had
actually been on the beach when Alexander Graham Bell and his friends flew that
plane in 1908. We had a delicious dinner at the Silver Dart, and just as
important, they had a WI-FI hot spot so Shelley could again download E-mail. [Baddeck
- Baddeck Cabot Trail Campground - 46.05 N / 60.51 E - Our furthest east so far]
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Baddeck Lighthouse
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Harbor view from the Alexander Graham Bell Museum
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Friday morning was most unusual as we got up in the
morning to find a blue sky!!! How unusual, we thought maybe we should take
a picture! We had decided to leave our motorhome at
the campground while we "did" the Cabot Trail and the Cape Breton National Park. After packing Rags and some clothes, we set out to drive
the Cabot Trail which circumvents the upper portion of Cape Breton Island.
First things first, however, so we went to
the Silver Dart to again download our E-mail. Our first stop was in
Northeast Margaree where we visited the Salmon Fishermen's Museum. For $2
we saw a collection of rods, reels, flies, pictures of fish and fishermen.
To be fair, you really needed to know about fly fishing to get much out of the
exhibit. After we left Margaree, while driving along the Gulf of St. Lawrence, we stopped at Joe's
Scarecrow Village in Cap Le Moine. Over 100 scarecrows are on display,
including presidents and firemen and the world's smallest scarecrow. It
was really a funny place to be. We chatted with the man who owned it, he
was an Acadian. He took over the exhibit from his father, who started it
about 30 years ago. Shelley found herself standing in between 2
ex-Republican Presidents, quite a sight, I assure you! In Cheticamp, we stopped at an Acadian
restaurant where Norm had meat pie for lunch. All the wait staff were
bilingual, but spoke their Acadian French amongst themselves. We also visited St. Peter's Church
which was built in 1893 for $41,950. The church is 212 feet long, 74 feet
wide and the steeples are 167 feet high. Quite unbelievable in a town of
only 1,000 people, hard to imagine they can support it. We continued along the shore until we entered Cape
Breton Highlands National Park. The scenery here is quite spectacular, as
we passed through mountains up to 1,500 feet high. We parked for a while
and took a short hike up and down some hills until we got a great sight of the
water. This bay, called Fishing Cove, was 1,000 feet below the road.
Once this lonely spot was a thriving farming and fishing community, complete
with a lobster cannery. By 1915. most of those families had moved to the
surrounding communities. It is now a wilderness campground, once reached
by a 15 mile hike. A short distance later took us to Pleasant Bay, a tiny town of 300
people (1/2 of that in the winter) where we stayed at a Bed and Breakfast.
The owner, Anna treated us like royalty, we had a lovely room and she really
spoiled us. She made us a beautiful dinner - it wasn't part of the deal but
Shelley groomed her Shih Tzu as a barter deal - she made her a birthday cake as
Friday was Shelley's birthday. We took a walk at sunset to the beach while
she kept Rags, and for breakfast we had a beautiful fresh fruit salad and
homemade french toast (she baked her own bread) served exquisitely. We really
didn't want to leave!! Shelley & Anna had a lot in common - she's even shorter
than Shelley, and also loves to sew, cook, does needlepoint, has almost the
identical dog - same color, same size, it was too cute, loves to read - we had a
nice time. In the morning (6 a.m.) Shelley was out walking Rags and somebody
honked and waved and called her Anna before they realized it wasn't her! Too
funny....To make it even more unusual, Anna's husband is in
the Navy so she lives alone 3 weeks out of every month and she has no car.
Her family lives very close by and they are quite close knit. Our stay at Highland Breeze was just what a stay at a B&B should be
like. We felt like we were leaving from a visit with family rather then a
stay at a hotel. It was really neat - Anna pulled it off perfectly.
[Highland Breeze B & B - Pleasant Bay Nova Scotia - 46.49.477 N / 60.47.87 W]. After leaving Pleasant Bay, the road ascended to the peaks of coastal mountains
and then plunged down to the sea. It was really dramatic...the trip is
known as one of the most beautiful in North America. After sometime we came to a
turn-off for Meat Cove. This is known for the animals that roamed the area
who were shot and then sent to passing boats to provide protein for the crew.
It "felt like the end of the earth". Amazingly, the brochure for Meat
Cove had a number of quotes in it from previous visitors and one quote was from
"LC from Highland Park, NJ"!!! It lies at the end of a daunting 12
km (7 mile) mostly unpaved road along a precipitous cliff marked by sudden
switchbacks. Its spectacular" - quoted from Fodor. [Meat Cove,
Nova Scotia - 47.02 N / 60.34 W]. We also had
a wonderful drive up and down Smoky Mountain just entering the town of Ingonish.
We drove back into Baddeck, stopped off to download E-Mail, and then stopped off
for dinner at a local Masons dinner. The dinner included salt cod, baked
potatoes, some kind of salt pork and onion mixture, a teaspoon full of mashed
turnips, peas and carrots - it didn't sit well with Shelley as she eats none of
that stuff!! Norm continued to clean his plate but agreed that he wouldn't
order that again! At least we felt that we were supporting the community,
but Shelley felt queasy most of the night and she only took 2 bites. We finally returned to the campground
late Saturday afternoon.
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Margaree Salmon Museum
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Joe's Scarecrow Village
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More Scarecrows
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Shelley standing arm & arm with 2 Republican Presidents!!
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Exterior of St. Peter's Catholic Church
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Interior of St. Peter's
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All signage is bi-lingual
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Cape Breton
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Another view
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Fishing Cove, where a thriving village once lived. It is now a wilderness campground.
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We went for a hike in the woods
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A view from our hike
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An eagle soaring overhead
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We saw a fin whale while having a picnic lunch at Meat Cove
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Norm at Meat Cove
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Moose Racks hammered to a tree
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Pleasant Bay shoreline
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Shelley & Anna, the owner of the B&B
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Rags & Shakespeare
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Shelley & Norm at the Highland Breeze B&B
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We had a relatively quiet day on Sunday. Shelley
stayed around the campsite, took two naps, and did some wash and cleaned up.
Norm spent most of the time around the motorhome and took a short trip to a
nearby Indian reservation of about 500 people. There wasn't much to see in
the museum, so it was a short outing. In the evening, we made a campfire
and had a nice evening with Joyce, Sharon and Richard, southern Californians who
were parked next to us in their 5th wheel. The following day the 5 of us
took a boatride out to the Bird Islands, a sanctuary where there were different
types of gulls and puffins in residence. The water was really rough, so it
was tough to get good pictures of the birds or gray seals in residence on
the islands. During the trip, the crew through some fish off the boat, and
we were twice treated to the sight of bald eagles swooping down and grabbing the
fish with their talons and taking off again. Really spectacular. The
crew of the tour boat also are lobster fishermen. That is a hard working
job, but in 2-3 months they can earn $100,000. During the first two weeks
of July they are awake by 3 AM, go out lobstering until 10 AM, and then run 3
three hour trips out to Bird Islands. They work really hard and also make
lots of money. Each day, they use 300 pounds of mackerel for bait for
catching lobster. Imagine how much mackerel they need at the beginning of
the lobster season. On Tuesday, Richard and Norm went back to the
dock and bought, for the five of us, 10 lobsters for dinner right off the boat for $6.50 per pound.
In the afternoon, we drove a short distance to Highland Village in Iona, Nova
Scotia. This demonstration village chronicles the change in the life of
Gaelic speaking Scotsmen who migrated to sections of Cape Breton Island in
nearby Nova Scotia. The village was relatively interesting as were
discussions with some of the docents there. Like many rural areas, many of
the younger people are leaving for areas with greater economic opportunity.
As this happens, the chances for the continuation of the Gaelic language and
traditions decreases. In the evening, Richard, Joyce and Sharon joined us
between our coaches for a wonderful lobster dinner. We had a great time
prying out the lobster meat with hammers, screw drivers and needle nose pliers.
Richard bought some nut crackers at a local hardware store earlier in the day,
and the lobster shells were so tough that the nut cracker actually broke.
We had another campfire between the 2 rigs and just enjoyed each other's
company.
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Eagle soaring
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Norm & Shelley at the Lobster "feed"
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Shelley & Richard with our "friends"
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Norm, Joyce, Sharon & Richard
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On Thursday morning we drove to North Sydney, Nova
Scotia since it was close to the docks for the Newfoundland ferry. We got
there early since Norm wanted to watch the US soccer team play in the World Cup.
While the game was on, Shelley did some shopping and also got a haircut.
It was enjoyable for her to find a real town after all these past few weeks.
She hit the local Walmart and went to Sobey's (a Canadian food shopping chain)
to buy groceries. After dinner we got together with Jim and Stephanie, friends from Western North
Carolina whom we had met at an earlier campground, and drove around for a bit. Of course, we couldn't pass by the
local ice cream place. Friday morning dawned foggy and cold and drizzly,
but we decided to go ahead with our plans to visit the nearby recreation of the
Fortress of Louisbourg. The fortress was originally built by the French
starting in 1713, captured by the British in 1745, returned to France in 1749,
and recaptured by the British in 1758. Each time that it was captured by
the British all of the French citizens were sent back to France and then they
returned when the French took over again. Interestingly enough, early on
Louisbourg was the administrative capital of French holdings in Atlantic Canada,
which was limited to Prince Edward Island and Cape Breton Island. The
whole area was reconstructed beginning about 1961. It is similar to
Williamsburg Virginia in some ways, with docents everywhere in period costumes
and some demonstrations going on. The reconstructed community and its
inhabitants is intended to be representative of life there in 1744.
However, it is on a much smaller scale than Williamsburg, and it is also not a
place where modern people actually live. [North Sydney - Arm of Gold
Campground - 46.15 N / 60.17 W]
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a depiction of Louisbourg Fortress
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Part of the walled in town
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Townsman
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soldier
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Catholic Chapel
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soldier accompanying the cannoneers
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We were up and out reasonably early on Saturday morning
(6/24) since we were supposed to be at the dock by 8 AM to take the ferry to
Newfoundland. We were hoping that our friends from Baddeck, Richard,
Sharon and Joyce, would be there to join is for the trip, but too bad, they
weren't there. The ferry was really huge. The 4th deck was just for
cars, and the 3rd deck was for trucks and RVs. It was big enough that
there was plenty of room for 4 RVs/trucks to park next to each other. The
ride was 6 hours long, as we traveled almost due north for 100 miles. But
the trip went quickly, as there was live entertainment, WI-FI, and a free movie.
When we arrived in Port Au Basques we stopped at the Visitor's Bureau to collect
brochures and traveled a short distance up the road to our campground.
Sunday was a little foggy out, and we decided to take a ride around Codroy
Valley. The campground manager gave us an article about a circular trip
which he recommended. There were descriptions of interesting places to stop and
visit along the way. Well, the artivle must have been a figment of the
imagination of the local Chamber of Commerce. Interesting sounding shops
turned out to be broken down businesses, many of them closed. Since the weather
cleared out, we decided to travel south and then east to visit the lighthouse at
Rose Blanche. The lighthouse was originally put into service in 1873 and
remained active for more than 70 years. In 1993 a local group of citizens banded
together to raise funds so that the lighthouse could be refurbished.
We had to hike to the lighthouse along a very rocky path. Along the way,
you could see the Petites, a village on the tip of the land. This village,
along with many others, did not have any way to get in or out, other than by
boat. When we got to the lighthouse, we lmet a lovely docent named Leah.
She spoke with a very heavy accent and we found it hard to understand her.
The accent was unlike any we had heard so far in Canada, I thought it sounded
very Irish or Scottish. She told us a lot about the refurbishing of the
lighthouse. When it was rebuilt, they used as much of the old granite as
they could and the rest was taken from the very granite on which it stands.
Leah told us about her home in West Point, Newfoundland, further east
along the coast. The village could be reached only by boat and about 120
people lived there. Eventually it became too difficult to provide
schooling and other services to the residents, so the government bought them out
and helped to resettle them in other communities. She
still has a summer cabin there, and she and her husband (along with many other
of the ex-residents) spend time in West Point each summer. Back at the
campground, during the
evening, we met a couple with their 2 children.
This gentleman has a secured WI-FI dish on his motorhome, but he removed the security
so we could download our e-mails and get on the internet. He maintains a web site called RVParkReviews.Com.
We also rented the movie "The Aviator" with Leonardo DiCaprio as we have no
satellite tv and nothing came on through the antenna. [Doyles,
Newfoundland - Grand Codroy RV Park - 47.50 N / 59.12 W]
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View from campsite at Grand Codroy
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The fishing village of Rose Blanche
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Another view of Rose Blanche
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View from the lighthouse towards the harbor
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Rose Blanche lighthouse
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On the trail to the lighthouse, looking towards the Petites
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On Monday we
packed up and hit the road again for a 120 mile jaunt
further north to the town of Corner Brook, 2nd largest (after St. Johns) in
Newfoundland with a population of about 35,000. We traveled on the Trans
Canada Highway which sounds as if it should be a fancy 4 lane limited access
highway. In reality, it was one lane in each direction with many bumps
that caused us to slow down to 30 miles per hour or so. We found our
campground with ease, and got set up. We then took a trip into downtown
Corner Brook, but it was a holiday - Discovery Day in Newfoundland - and most everything was
closed. Shelley was tired, so she came back and took a nap, but Norm took
a drive out the north side of the Bay of Islands, which seemed like a fjord,
with hills on either side of the Bay and little towns perched on the side of the
hills. It was really pretty. Later on we met Lynne West for dinner.
Norm met Lynne on an internet site where Lynne keeps busy promoting tourism in
Newfoundland by RVers. She is 63, widowed and a librarian in Corner Brook.
She camps in a tiny little fiberglass cabin that fits on the back of her pick-up
truck. For us, she is really amazing, but she treats it as a normal
everyday thing. She just does her camping thing with her 2 Chesapeake Bay
Retrievers, each about 75 pounds. She plans on going to Alaska with her
dogs in about 2 years, after she retires and moved to Prince Edward Island.
She is originally from Pennsylvania but has lived in Canada for over 20 years.
When we got back to the campground we hooked up with Peter and Marie Wheeler who
we met in Baddeck. Since our plans for the next week or so were pretty
similar, we agreed to travel together for awhile. [Kinsmen Prince Edward Campground - Corner Brook, Newfoundland - 48.58 N / 57.54
W ]
On Tuesday morning, we set off for our next stop in
Gros Morne National Park. The trip was pretty short, and we arrived at our
campground reasonably early. We spent the time in Gros Morne doing most
things with Peter and Marie. We drove north a short distance to Lobster
Point Lighthouse. There we met the docent who also gives talks at the
fishing hut of the Mudge family, fishermen who lived there a number of years ago.
We also found a place where Cambrian and Ordivician era rocks are exposed and
easily datable from the fossils imbedded in the rocks. For dinner, we ate
at the campground restaurant where Norm had a bowl of
moose soup. Tuesday night was hard to sleep as the
wind was blowing at least 35 mph and the motorhome was rocking all night...just
like the boat. On Wednesday morning we heard the same docent, her name was
Louise, talk about the her life as one
of the very few women fishing fulltime. She told us how the other
fishermen treated her as a pariah, as women on boats were bad luck. She also discussed the Mudge
family and their life as fishermen. They also worked incredibly hard, and
they also made a pretty good living. The 10 members of the Mudge family
lived together during the summer in a tiny cabin that measured 16 feet by 26
feet. After that, we stopped off briefly to see the remains of a ship
wrecked on the rocky coast in 1919, and Shelley just could not resist collecting
some rocks. In the afternoon, we drove a short distance to Norris Point.
There we passed a beautiful vista and a souvenir shop advertising a "Mug Up".
We had no idea what that was so.....a Mug Up is an afternoon snack of tea, bread
and molasses. We had to try it.... and then went on to
visit a marine station where a college students study marine animals that live
in the area. Marie made delicious stew for us for dinner and then, at
dusk, we drove around "moose hunting". We'd been hearing how many moose
there were around and we hadn't seen any yet. We were still unlucky, as no
moose were visible. Then, at 9:30 we went to a local motel pub for a
performance by Anchors Aweigh, a local group that put on a performance playing "Newfie"
songs. They were really fun, and the 4 of us had a great time. On Thursday,
after convincing Rags we needed to sleep in a bit, we continued on our plans to take a boat ride on Western Brook. We drove up,
parked the car, and walked about 1 1/2 miles to the boat dock. On the way,
we finally got to see our first moose and it was only about 20 feet away.
That was pretty exciting. When we got to the dock, the fog ceiling started to
lower, and by the scheduled departure of 1 PM, the ceiling was probably less
than 100 feet. After a few minutes, the captain announced that the trip
was cancelled because of the visibility, so we all walked back to the cars.
It was a pretty walk through fields, meadows and peat bogs, and not too
strenuous, so we at least enjoyed that. By the time we returned to Rocky Harbour we decided to buy lobsters for dinner, so we drove to the fish market at
the edge of town and bought lobsters and mussels. We took a break during
the late afternoon, and cooked our meal in the little shelter in the campground with
power and a woodburning stove. We got permission to use it for dinner, so
Norm built a fire in the stove, and we cooked our lobster and ate dinner there.
It made it easy to clean up and kept our coaches clean. [Gros Morne
Campground and Restaurant - Rocky Harbour, Newfoundland - 49.35 N / 57.55W]
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It was very windy!
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Gros Morne - Rocky Harbor Lighthouse
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Green Point rocks
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Typical street sign in Newfoundland
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Moose sighting!!
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Different view - same moose!
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Norm & Shelley on a 2-1/2 mile hike. I'm still smiling!
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Mudge Family fishing shed
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View from the Mug Up
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Shelley at the old fashioned stove at the Mug Up
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Norm, Marie & Peter with the lobsters
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Rags enjoying the heat from the woodstove
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