
On Saturday, May 3, we left Zion National Park. We drove through the
hairpin turns and the tunnel and finally got to a normal road. The trip to
Ruby's Campground, at the entrance to Bryce Canyon National Park was reasonably
short, but we went from the Zion campground at about 3,600 feet to Ruby's
elevation of about 7,750. We had trouble getting level and getting the
satellite TV working, so Shelley was sort of cranky when we finally got settled.
But fear not! We packed up our stuff and went to the indoor hot tub at
Ruby's Best Western Hotel. While we soaked and unwound, we met two other
couples in the hot tub. One couple from Seattle, WA had, about 15 years
ago, biked from Seattle to Halifax, Nova Scotia!! The other couple, from
Ottawa, bikes about one hour to work 7 or 8 months a year. Both couples
were between our ages. We sure felt like a couple of
couch potatoes. We had a buffet dinner at Ruby's Inn....not very good.
On Sunday we drove the 15 miles through the park. At Rainbow
Point, the
far end, the elevation was 9,100 feet. It's strange--we weren't in the
mountains, just a very high plateau. These strangely shaped objects eroded
by the wind are called hoodoos and they are everywhere. As we stopped at
the different way points on our way back from Rainbow Point, the vistas were
more limited, but the hoodoos were more spectacular - that's what Bryce is
known for. After dinner in the coach, we went to a ranger program
at Bryce Lodge, concerning Bryce Canyon and its history. The speaker has been
at Bryce 23
years, and the program was excellent. Monday morning was laundry day, but we
left the coach at 11 AM ready to tackle Bryce. We took the Rim Trail for a
short distance just to warm up, and then stopped at the General Store for a
quick snack. We drove over to Sunset Point to begin our serious hike.
It was 2.9 miles long and descended 580 feet into the valley floor. Of
course, that meant we had to go back up 580 feet also. It was like a
fantasy land down there. We walked between pinnacles of rock, through
arches and along the valley floor. On the trip down, we followed the trail
through a series of switchbacks (maybe 10 to 15 of them) across an open slope.
We descended through a series of hoodoos, windows, slot canyons and through
some open archways to the wooded valley floor. After some time, the trail
started a long, gradual ascent. There were fallen trees strategically
placed for us to rest as we were so out of breath from the hike and the high
atmosphere. We met a number of people on these trees and had conversations
with several.....as we all tried to get out breath! Finally, we reached the parking lot at Sunrise
Point and still had to hike along the Rim Trail back to our car. We were
amazed at the people we met along the way. A fair number were much older
than us, and many were from overseas. There was even a single woman with a
2 year old. The baby got carried most of the way, but she also toddled her
way along the trail at some places. Some of the hoodoos had names...one had
to use their imagination to see ET and also Queen Victoria. As we
neared the end of our hike, we noticed 2 rangers heading back down the trail,
apparently with first aid kits. It turn out that a woman broke her ankle about
2/3 of the way down into the valley, and they had to bring her up to the parking
lot with a gurney. Those rangers had to be in great shape; we were both
beat after coming up the hill without having to push a gurney.
A few
interesting fact about Bryce. When last surveyed a few years ago, 42% of
visitors were from outside the US and the average length of stay here was three
hours. Also, precipitation that falls on the west side of the park road
flows into a stream that eventually ends upon in the Colorado River and the Gulf
of Mexico, while precipitation on the east side runs off into the desert where
it evaporates. [Ruby's Campground - Bryce Canyon,
Utah - 37.40 N / 112.10 W ]
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Fairyland Canyon
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Another view of Fairyland Canyon
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Vista from Rainbow Point
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Another beautiful view!
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We're as high as the bird
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Natural Arch
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Hole in the wall
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Norm on Fairyland trail
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Hoodoos
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More Hoodoos
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Navajo Loop switchbacks
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Norm at bottom of Navajo Loop
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View from bottom of Loop looking up
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Shelley in an arch on trail
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Queen Victoria Hoodoo
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ET hoodoo
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Norm & Shelley going through arch on trail
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Jay bird we saw on bottom of trail
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We left Bryce on Tuesday morning, May 6 (Happy
Birthday Janice) heading mostly north to Salt Lake City. It's the most
northern point on our trip until we get back to the northeast in June and our first
time in a major city in a week and a half. We stayed in the
northern suburb of Bountiful at an Elks Lodge parking area with hook-ups, but
the RV spaces were very poorly placed. We had trouble figuring out how to park so
that we could take advantage of the water, power, and sewer, but we finally
figured out how to make it work. We went to dinner
at China Star, the first non-buffet Chinese food in a long time and it was a
nice treat. On Wednesday, Norm took the coach to a nearby Camping World
for a very minor repair while Shelley wandered through some of the nearby
stores. She was very glad to be in a "shopping area" instead of all the
National Parks - it was a nice break! We were so close, we were able to walk
to Costco for their gourmet lunch of a Hot Dog and soda!! We could walk to
the Petco (Shelley's already shopping for Sammie, our new puppy that we will get
in Lexington, KY around Memorial Day). Norm was overjoyed to find a New York Times at Barnes
and Noble - he had been NYT deprived!! We were also able to walk for a haircut,
a Dollar store, Michael's, Starbucks!! and several other stores. We took
care of some of those housekeeping chores still have to get done. On
Thursday, after some food shopping, we drove into Salt Lake City. After a
short stop at the Visitor's Center, we went to the Mormon Tabernacle for a free
lunchtime Organ Concert. The Tabernacle was built in 1867 and is 170 feet long and
seats 3,500 people. The acoustics are unbelievable. We were seated
close to the rear, and yet we could hear the sound of a pin dropping and
newspaper tearing when they demonstrated the acoustics. The place is
awesome. The organ itself is world famous, with 11,623 pipes and was
originally built in the 1860's. We then took a tour of Temple Square, an
area of about 4 square blocks, totally owned by the Mormon Church. Inside
the square, there are hundreds of Mormon missionaries (most of them young women) from all over the world
who volunteer 18 months of their time to the church. Some of them acted as tour
guides, and the tour was partially telling us about the beliefs of the church
and how they differed from mainstream Christianity. The square is
beautiful with the Tabernacle, a cathedral, a smaller chapel, and church
administration buildings contained inside the walls. The area was full of
very colorful flowers in beautiful beds.
Our next stop was the Genealogy Center, run by the
Mormons, with lots of volunteer staff. We spent a few hours on the
computers accessing websites that the normal individual at home could not
access. Shelley was really
successful, while Norm seemed to be blocked most everywhere he tried.
Shelley even found a picture of the boat that her great grandfather came over
from Europe! We kept calling our parents and Norm's sister Barbara to get
more information that we might be able to search. It was great fun!!
We
wandered around the streets of downtown Salt Lake City for a short time and then
went to Buca di Beppo, a nice Italian restaurant (and part of a chain) for a
wonderful dinner. We both even used our will power to save half of our
dinner for another time. (That was because we had to save room for the
chocolate cannolis for dessert.) We returned to the Tabernacle to see the
famed Mormon Tabernacle Choir rehearse. The choir has 360 unpaid
volunteers, and in addition the orchestra has about another 75 people. The sound
was awesome, and we stayed for about 45 minutes. Both the rehearsal and
the organ recital were free of charge. The weather was not too nice on
Friday, so we drove to a nearby RV dealer who fixed our satellite TV that had
been acting up. On Saturday morning we drove a little east of Salt Lake
City to "This is the Place" and "Heritage Village". The former purports to
be the place where Brigham Young told the migrating Mormons that they had
arrived at the place where they would settle to avoid religious persecution.
[Note: Someone mentioned to us that it was very similar to the Jews coming to
Israel to avoid religious persecution.] Heritage Village is a collection
of 40 buildings representative of a community in the area between 1847 and 1869.
The staff is dressed in period attire and tries to talk with you as if we were
back in that time. While similar to Williamsburg in concept, they can't
quite pull it off. The staff is just not trained well enough, the time
there was just OK, although we did learn some things. By the way, on the
way, we passed a BAGEL place, and couldn't resist stopping and buying a few.
[Elk's Lodge - Bountiful, Utah - 40.54 N / 111.54 W]
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Mormon Tabernacle Organ Recital
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Formal gardens at Temple Square
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More formal gardens
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Gorgeous spring flowers
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Jewish star on Mormon church!!
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Meditation garden at Temple Square
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Mormon Church
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Mormon Cathedral
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Mormon Tabernacle Choir practice
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Statues inside Temple Square
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Tulips planted along street in Salt Lake City
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View from This Is The Place (TITP)
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TITP - Barber talking to Shelley
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TITP - old cabin
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TITP - Milliner showing off her hats
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TITP - Shelley wearing a "tea" hat
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On Sunday, May 11, we headed south from Salt Lake
City to Moab, Utah, in the far southeast corner of Utah. After going south
on I-15 for about 60 miles, we turned southeast through the mountains. The
going was slow, as the road wound up the hills and down through the valleys. We
got as high as 7,477 feet and often dropped down to just under 5,000 feet.
We arrived in Moab in mid-afternoon, and got the impression that it was a cutsie,
artsy, fartsy town. After setting up the motorhome, we drove the short
distance to the visitor's center of Arches National Park. We got some
information that allowed us to plan the next day's trip to the park and also saw
a short movie that described the formation of the arches. At the movie we
sat next to a woman from East Brunswick, NJ who grew up in New Brunswick, NJ and
knew Shelley's mom when they were both in high school!!! What a small
world!! We spent most of Tuesday at Arches. We drove the 18 mile
park trail, stopping whenever something seemed interesting. There are
2,000 arches in the park, and many are visible from the road. We stopped
at a parking lot and took the short walks to both Double Arch and the Windows.
We then continued into the park toward the Delicate Arch, the symbol that
appears on the Utah license plate. We took the upper path from the parking
lot to the Delicate Arch Viewpoint. The trail was 1/2 mile each way, and
increased about 200 feet in elevation. Even though the arch was some
distance away, it was really neat to see it. Erosion here in the park is
still going on at a rapid rate. In 1991, a rock slab 60 feet long, 11 feet
wide and 4 feet thick fell from the under side of Landscape Arch, virtually
doubling the size of the open arch. It is springtime here, and while
driving along the road, we saw white, purple, red and yellow wildflowers.
The yellow ones were the most common, and long rows of them were along the road,
bobbing and weaving in the breeze.
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Three Gossips Arch formation
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Balanced Rock
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Sign saying "Congested Area"!!!
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Delicate Arch - State Symbol
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Norm & Shelley at Delicate Arch
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Double Arches
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Shelley resting during hike
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Beautiful Arch
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Tower of Babel arch formation
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Utah license plate - Delicate Arch
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One of the Arches incredible vistas
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Another beautiful sight
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Daisy type wild flowers
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Flowering cactus
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Red wildflowers
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Yellow wildflowers
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On Tuesday morning, we let most of the bad weather pass
by before leaving for Canyonlands National Park. This park is unique in
that the Colorado and Green Rivers flow through the park and divide the park
into 3 areas. It is difficult, if not impossible, to get from one area to
the other. The area we drove through is called Island in the Sky. A
good bit of the drive is through rolling countryside, but frequently there was a
view point with ABSOLUTELY INCREDIBLE views. You could look down into
canyons that had sides containing rock layers of reds, oranges, browns, grays,
greens and whites. We both agreed that the vistas were the best we had
seen yet. At the Grand Viewpoint Outlook, we could look down about 2,000
feet to the floor of the canyon and also look out many miles to see smaller side
canyons and the other 2 regions of the park. Unfortunately, the weather was cool
and windy, so we didn't take any hikes. But we did stop and gape at every
opportunity. For dinner, we went to the Moab Brewery. The food was
just OK, and the waiter kept bringing Norm the wrong dinner, so we got his meal
for free. [Moab Rim Campground - Moab, Utah - 38.33 N / 109.31 W ]
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Buck Canyon Overlook
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Candlestick Tower Outlook
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Another view of the Canyonlands Candlestick Tower Outlook
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Candlestick Tower
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Green River Overlook
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Holeman Spring Canyon
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Norm standing by overlook
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Shafer Canyon Overlook
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View from our campsite
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Vista
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Another view
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and another view
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On Wednesday, 5/14 we left Moab and drove SE to
Cortez, CO. This was our first time in Colorado with the RV. After
getting settled in our campground, we went to visit the Anasazi Cultural Center.
The Anasazi are a group of Indians that settled in this area, which they
inhabited off and on until the 1300s. We both were so impressed by the
still beautiful pottery recovered from archeological digs and such in the area.
On Thursday, the weather forecast was iffy, but we took a drive to Mesa Verde
National Park anyway. From the time we entered the park, it seemed as if
the roadway went straight up. We started at about 6,000 feet, and reached
a top of 8,572 feet. Along the way, we saw 4 deer crossing the road and
climbing up the side of some cliffs, and one coyote that disappeared before we
could get a picture - that is the sum total of the wildlife we've seen on this
trip, other than squirrels!! The trip to the visitor's center was about 15 miles
from the park entrance, and most of the ancient ruins were another half an hour
deeper into the park. At the visitor's center, Norm started worrying about our gas supply
for the CRV, so we reluctantly turned back to Cortez. Tomorrow is supposed
to be much nicer, so we'll try to explore Mesa Verde again. On Thursday
evening, we went to the Cortez Cultural Center to hear a presentation by Dr.
Floyd O'Neill, Director Emeritus of the American West Center at the University
of Utah. He discussed the treatment of the local Indians by the federal
and state governments. There were about 25 people in attendance, and they
all seemed to be very sympathetic to the Indian cause. This compares with
what southerners from Mississippi, Alabama and Louisiana would think about
treatment of the blacks in the South. On Friday morning we moved the rig to
the nearby Elk's Lodge and then drove back to Mesa Verde. We took the tour
of the Cliff Palace and it was quite awesome. These cliff dwellings were
discovered in the late 1880s by cowboys. The dwellings, primarily made out
of sandstone and mud, were inhabited by the Anasazi Indians (now called
Ancestral Puebloans) from the mid to late 1200s. The ruins are much as
they were when they were discovered, except that debris from collapses has been
removed. Its really hard to believe that the buildings are 700 years old.
With our modern technology, how many things made today are expected to last that
long? Mesa Verde is one of the few (if not only) National Parks that
specialize in archeology. We noticed many acres of dead trees while
driving on the park road at Mesa Verde. A ranger told me that 2/3 of the
park had been burned by forest fires during the last 20 years. When we took
some hikes, we felt excessively tired...more then we felt that we should be.
So I took a list at the last places that we've been along with the altitude.
Here is what I came up with and it is no big surprise that a little bit of
exertion really knocked the heck out of us!!